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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 30, 2016 20:52:08 GMT -5
I don't expect this thread to be quite as thorough as "BoomBoom"'s tips, but I figured posting the links to the two "instructional" streams I've done would be a good idea and might expose them to a broader audience. How I Play The Golf Club: This one was intended to cover most aspects of the game in basic detail. There's something in there for nearly everyone, I think, but it's certainly geared more toward new/lower-level players. How I Play Firm Greens: As you might expect, the primary focus of this stream was to explain how I attack firm greens. The main difficulty is, of course, the approach into the green, but there are also subtle differences with respect to pitch shots, bunker play, and the short game that shouldn't be ignored. I'll be the first to admit that my methods are far from perfect, but they have earned me quite a bit of success here on TGCT. A large chunk of how I learned to play this game was through watching others on YouTube and Twitch, so it seems appropriate to try to help out anyone who wants it. I hope the above videos will be of use to you, and please don't hesitate to ask me questions, either in this thread or through live chat on Twitch. Happy golfing. |
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Post by Mark (Kram) on Aug 30, 2016 21:14:11 GMT -5
Please explain how to putt effectively  Is there a Stream showing that? For me personally, I seem to putt better on 150-160 green speeds, by that I mean I make more putts, 175 and higher is just arbitrary. I know we've spoken about this in the past and you've mentioned feel, but surely there's more method to your madness  Progressing on a tangent, I feel the cup is too small relative to the ball size, but I may be mistaken. |
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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 30, 2016 21:34:28 GMT -5
Please explain how to putt effectively Is there a Stream showing that? For me personally, I seem to putt better on 150-160 green speeds, by that I mean I make more putts, 175 and higher is just arbitrary. I know we've spoken about this in the past and you've mentioned feel, but surely there's more method to your madness Progressing on a tangent, I feel the cup is too small relative to the ball size, but I may be mistaken. I think I covered my putting method in detail in the first stream. I basically always move the marker to 2-3 inches beyond the distance to hole (in feet) plus or minus the elevation change (in inches). For instance, on a 17-foot putt that is 4 inches uphill, I will set the marker at 23 or 24 feet (17+4+2). The amount of break I play is totally by feel, though, as is the distance I pull the putter back (i.e., I don't use visual cues, though I know that some others do). It's important to note that the amount of break will change with the green speed: all other things equal, a putt on 155 greens will break less than one on 187 greens. If you consistently play too little break on the faster greens, then that may be your problem. Furthermore, it is imperative to match your line to your intended putt speed (if you want to hammer a putt in the back of the cup, play less break; if you want to lag it to the hole, play more). That's about it, really, at least in general. The hole does seem a little small sometimes to me as well, but there's not much you can do about that. Note: sometimes elevation calculations can break down, especially when there's a severe slope or when the greens are particularly quick (or both). For instance, I'd set the marker for a 43-foot, 26-inch uphill putt at about 82 feet (1.5x the change in elevation). On the other hand, I'd set the marker at 5 or 6 feet on a 12-foot, 5-inch downhill putt (especially on 187 greens). These are exceptions to the rule, though. |
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Post by yaters on Aug 30, 2016 23:14:40 GMT -5
I'd like to see you do a quick stream about judging high winds. A direct tail or head wind I'm fine with. It's the 15 mph at about a 45 degree angle that gives me fits. Any help there Griffin?
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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 31, 2016 0:09:35 GMT -5
I'd like to see you do a quick stream about judging high winds. A direct tail or head wind I'm fine with. It's the 15 mph at about a 45 degree angle that gives me fits. Any help there Griffin? Quite a bit depends on the club you're hitting, but my general rule of thumb is take about 75% (maybe up to 85% if it's especially breezy) of the wind and apply it component-wise. For instance, if you have a 15 mph wind coming in at 4:30 on the clock, aim as if you have a 12 or 13 mph crosswind blowing at 3:00 and as if you have a direct headwind of 12 or 13 mph. |
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Post by jtcurrent on Aug 31, 2016 8:25:33 GMT -5
That's good stuff. Diagonal winds are toughest for me and particularly so on firm greens.
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Post by mde8965 on Aug 31, 2016 8:27:46 GMT -5
I'd like to see you do a quick stream about judging high winds. A direct tail or head wind I'm fine with. It's the 15 mph at about a 45 degree angle that gives me fits. Any help there Griffin? Quite a bit depends on the club you're hitting, but my general rule of thumb is take about 75% (maybe up to 85% if it's especially breezy) of the wind and apply it component-wise. For instance, if you have a 15 mph wind coming in at 4:30 on the clock, aim as if you have a 12 or 13 mph crosswind blowing at 3:00 and as if you have a direct headwind of 12 or 13 mph. Hey D.O. Thanks for playing it forward. I cannot wait to take a look at your videos when I am at home.
Question on the comment posted above. I am not sure I am reading it correctly. So are you saying, with a wind if 15mph at 4:30, that you add 12-13mph plus whatever compensation is used for a direct crosswind of 12-13mph? If so, what is the compensation estimate you use for a direct crosswind in double digits?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2016 8:32:05 GMT -5
can u top guys quit giving up tips I will be in CC-B quicker than I can say BOOM
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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 31, 2016 9:36:01 GMT -5
Quite a bit depends on the club you're hitting, but my general rule of thumb is take about 75% (maybe up to 85% if it's especially breezy) of the wind and apply it component-wise. For instance, if you have a 15 mph wind coming in at 4:30 on the clock, aim as if you have a 12 or 13 mph crosswind blowing at 3:00 and as if you have a direct headwind of 12 or 13 mph. Hey D.O. Thanks for playing it forward. I cannot wait to take a look at your videos when I am at home.
Question on the comment posted above. I am not sure I am reading it correctly. So are you saying, with a wind if 15mph at 4:30, that you add 12-13mph plus whatever compensation is used for a direct crosswind of 12-13mph? If so, what is the compensation estimate you use for a direct crosswind in double digits?
Yes, take both into account, so you'd need to 1) aim quite a bit left and 2) add some yardage to your shot. Unfortunately, my technique for dealing with crosswinds is simply to eyeball it, which generally works well for me but is rather hard to teach. Some players like using Doyley's click method, and others like to draw and fade the ball to counteract the wind. Perhaps there's some other method I'm forgetting, but those seem to be the main two. |
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Post by mde8965 on Aug 31, 2016 10:08:57 GMT -5
Hey D.O. Thanks for playing it forward. I cannot wait to take a look at your videos when I am at home.
Question on the comment posted above. I am not sure I am reading it correctly. So are you saying, with a wind if 15mph at 4:30, that you add 12-13mph plus whatever compensation is used for a direct crosswind of 12-13mph? If so, what is the compensation estimate you use for a direct crosswind in double digits?
Yes, take both into account, so you'd need to 1) aim quite a bit left and 2) add some yardage to your shot. Unfortunately, my technique for dealing with crosswinds is simply to eyeball it, which generally works well for me but is rather hard to teach. Some players like using Doyley's click method, and others like to draw and fade the ball to counteract the wind. Perhaps there's some other method I'm forgetting, but those seem to be the main two.
Hey D.O.
Thanks for the reply. Say you have a direct cross wind of 10mph. For me I add maybe 2-3 yards to my calculated distance to compensate, then use the shot shaper to add about 9/10th's of one box fade or draw depending on which way the wind is blowing. For a 4:30 wind at 10mph, I would add roughly 10-12 yds to my calculated distance, and use the shot shaper just under 1/2 box fade to compensate.
If the wind is under 5, then I do not really compensate at all distance wise for a direct cross wind (maybe 1yd) and for a 4:30 5mph wind would just round to adding 5yds to the distance... and for the aim I would just aim to the left about 2-3 yards from the landing point... (don't use fade/draw for 5mph and under)....
Going by your description, it sounds like you initial advice pretty much coincides distance wise. But it sounds like you use the fade/draw less than I do (for wind compensation)... which I will try as you are a hole lot better at this game than I am or probably ever will be...
Good discussion, and it is great that one of the better players in this game is willing to share tips/tricks and make videos to help others. Good Karma... |
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Post by yaters on Aug 31, 2016 10:11:19 GMT -5
Seems like you play with a lot of feel with some of the intricacies of this game Griffin. I play the same way, but your instincts are a lot better than mine.
Appreciate the tips and willingness to post this stuff. I'll try to use a different approximation with the cross winds. Was doing more of a 50% thing and I think that has me screwed up.
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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 31, 2016 11:13:58 GMT -5
Yes, take both into account, so you'd need to 1) aim quite a bit left and 2) add some yardage to your shot. Unfortunately, my technique for dealing with crosswinds is simply to eyeball it, which generally works well for me but is rather hard to teach. Some players like using Doyley's click method, and others like to draw and fade the ball to counteract the wind. Perhaps there's some other method I'm forgetting, but those seem to be the main two.
Hey D.O.
Thanks for the reply. Say you have a direct cross wind of 10mph. For me I add maybe 2-3 yards to my calculated distance to compensate, then use the shot shaper to add about 9/10th's of one box fade or draw depending on which way the wind is blowing. For a 4:30 wind at 10mph, I would add roughly 10-12 yds to my calculated distance, and use the shot shaper just under 1/2 box fade to compensate.
If the wind is under 5, then I do not really compensate at all distance wise for a direct cross wind (maybe 1yd) and for a 4:30 5mph wind would just round to adding 5yds to the distance... and for the aim I would just aim to the left about 2-3 yards from the landing point... (don't use fade/draw for 5mph and under)....
Going by your description, it sounds like you initial advice pretty much coincides distance wise. But it sounds like you use the fade/draw less than I do (for wind compensation)... which I will try as you are a hole lot better at this game than I am or probably ever will be...
Good discussion, and it is great that one of the better players in this game is willing to share tips/tricks and make videos to help others. Good Karma... I almost never use draw or fade, that is correct. You're welcome to try my method, if you'd like, but it will probably take quite a bit of practice and trial and error to get it right. If you're reasonably happy with how you currently judge winds, then it would probably be best not to change anything. yaters, yes, I'd say I rely on feel a decent amount. 50% seems quite a bit too low for diagonal winds. *math alert* The absolute value of sine and cosine of any angle that is [(2k+1)*pi] / 4 will be 1/2 times root 2, or about .707. So you would expect each component to have an effect of about 71% of the wind strength. I bumped that up to 75% for the sake of convenience and because it seems that people underestimate the wind more than they overestimate it. |
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Post by mde8965 on Aug 31, 2016 11:23:36 GMT -5
I almost never use draw or fade, that is correct. You're welcome to try my method, if you'd like, but it will probably take quite a bit of practice and trial and error to get it right. If you're reasonably happy with how you currently judge winds, then it would probably be best not to change anything. yaters , yes, I'd say I rely on feel a decent amount. 50% seems quite a bit too low for diagonal winds. *math alert* The absolute value of sine and cosine of any angle that is [(2k+1)*pi] / 4 will be 1/2 times root 2, or about .707. So you would expect each component to have an effect of about 71% of the wind strength. I bumped that up to 75% for the sake of convenience and because it seems that people underestimate the wind more than they overestimate it. re math alert -- My head just exploded!! So, what I am hearing you say, is that a diagonal wind (4:30 or 7:30) that a 10mph diagonal wind would need to have 7.1yds (ok 7.5yds) of distance added to the distance in the golfer's calculations to compensate (distance wise) for wind... Interesting as I usually use 1/1 wind speed/distance add for diagonal winds at 4:30 and 7:30 and if anything I thought I was coming up short, not long.... Or maybe I just misunderstood. After all, 7th grade was the best 3 years of my life...LOL |
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Post by DoubtfulObelisk on Aug 31, 2016 11:29:28 GMT -5
I almost never use draw or fade, that is correct. You're welcome to try my method, if you'd like, but it will probably take quite a bit of practice and trial and error to get it right. If you're reasonably happy with how you currently judge winds, then it would probably be best not to change anything. yaters , yes, I'd say I rely on feel a decent amount. 50% seems quite a bit too low for diagonal winds. *math alert* The absolute value of sine and cosine of any angle that is [(2k+1)*pi] / 4 will be 1/2 times root 2, or about .707. So you would expect each component to have an effect of about 71% of the wind strength. I bumped that up to 75% for the sake of convenience and because it seems that people underestimate the wind more than they overestimate it. re math alert -- My head just exploded!! So, what I am hearing you say, is that a diagonal wind (4:30 or 7:30) that a 10mph diagonal wind would need to have 7.1yds (ok 7.5yds) of distance added to the distance in the golfer's calculations to compensate (distance wise) for wind... Interesting as I usually use 1/1 wind speed/distance add for diagonal winds at 4:30 and 7:30 and if anything I thought I was coming up short, not long.... Or maybe I just misunderstood. After all, 7th grade was the best 3 years of my life...LOL In theory, yes, 7-8 yards would be right. In practice, it seems you need to factor in another multiplier to make things work properly. For instance, a 10-mph headwind seems to have an effect of 15 yards or so. If you multiply that .707 by 1.5, you get 1.06, which is probably closer to the "real" effect of the wind. |
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Post by yaters on Aug 31, 2016 11:38:31 GMT -5
Ummm....I think I will just go with approximations and feel. Otherwise it will take me 3 hours to play a round with a calculator.
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Is there a Stream showing that? For me personally, I seem to putt better on 150-160 green speeds, by that I mean I make more putts, 175 and higher is just arbitrary. I know we've spoken about this in the past and you've mentioned feel, but surely there's more method to your madness 
Progressing on a tangent, I feel the cup is too small relative to the ball size, but I may be mistaken.
