Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2016 5:56:50 GMT -5
I would like to ask... Which putting view do you use as I have had varied results using all 4. This would be easier to explain with pictures,but I'm lazy and not very tech savvy. I will try anyway.... in boom's pictures and wags video you both use let's call it,the default view, I have had a fair bit of success that way but I have changed to the closest view and used the straight line method and sunk more Putts. if you try the straight line method on each of the 4 views results differ greatly. I know it's not an exact science but I want to know from the converts who use this method, if they have noticed this too or is it just my me or my TV. I know there is lots of views but I mean the 4 that you can actually make a putt with. The default view, which is the view for every golf game I've ever played, is the only one I can work with. I've looked at other views and I can't even imagine trying to make a putt from them. |
|
|
|
Post by boomboom on Jul 14, 2016 8:35:04 GMT -5
wagtunes...At first I thought you were an annoying bugger, however you have really elevated yourself to a respectable contributing member of the community. TY for everything you are doing, much appreciated.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2016 8:49:59 GMT -5
wagtunes...At first I thought you were an annoying bugger, however you have really elevated yourself to a respectable contributing member of the community. TY for everything you are doing, much appreciated. Bryan, I was an annoying little bugger. But I've had an attitude adjustment and am hoping to be a positive influence around here. PS - My putting and pitching have improved a crap ton. So better look over your shoulder. LOL. |
|
|
|
Post by boomboom on Jul 14, 2016 9:39:22 GMT -5
wagtunes...At first I thought you were an annoying bugger, however you have really elevated yourself to a respectable contributing member of the community. TY for everything you are doing, much appreciated. Bryan, I was an annoying little bugger. But I've had an attitude adjustment and am hoping to be a positive influence around here. PS - My putting and pitching have improved a crap ton. So better look over your shoulder. LOL. Looking forward to it, I hope you catch and surpass me, and take on the Machine, or the Machine Junior.  |
|
|
|
Post by Errol1967 on Jul 14, 2016 16:21:18 GMT -5
One more for today, but it's a big big one. BoomBoom, HTF do you make so many putts from all over the fckn place? Well my friend, it's not about feel, experience, maybe a little luck, but i have an excellent way to pick and approximate starting line. Then depending on green speed and consistency of the break I adjust from there. Obviously i don't make them all, but this method gives me much more than my share. Ok picture below is the putt I'm faced with, yeah it's an easy one but I'm using for an illustration to the method I use.  Now I set the marker for the distance I intend to hit and turn the opposite way of the way of the break till the grid lines go flat and level and take note of how far I turned. Little mistake in the below photo, the marker should be out to the distance I intend to hit........  I then turn and go an equal distance back away from the hole and hit the putt.  Adjustments I will make from this method, slower greens I will play a little less break, faster greens I will play a little more, and I will adjust for inconsistent breaks between me and the hole. i.e double breakers maybe. How fckn simple is that folks!!!!! Tomorrow, the wind, how to break wind like a pro without the beans......................... I do not understand this, maybe Im dumb, but Im new to this awsome game and having huge trouble with those sidehill putts. Played Q School juli and had more then 90+, cause of those putts. I know how to use the loftchart and down and uphill putts, but I realy need some help how to put those, cause I don't understand till the grid lines go flat and level. I realy want to learn it, so I can have a bit better scores then +90. Even on easy courses I have trouble...Can't t even finish under par and if this continues I don't have fun no more in this game. Kind regards. |
|
|
|
Post by ErixonStone on Jul 14, 2016 16:45:03 GMT -5
I don't understand till the grid lines go flat and level. I realy want to learn it I'll repost the video that @wagtunes added two pages ago. The idea is that as you turn away from the break, the green grid lines that run across the screen (ignore the white beads running across them) actually become parallel with the bottom of your screen. When that happens, take note of how far you've turned. Then turn that amount the opposite way. That should get you pretty close. Here's that video: |
|
|
|
Post by Errol1967 on Jul 14, 2016 17:57:51 GMT -5
I don't understand till the grid lines go flat and level. I realy want to learn it I'll repost the video that @wagtunes added two pages ago. The idea is that as you turn away from the break, the green grid lines that run across the screen (ignore the white beads running across them) actually become parallel with the bottom of your screen. When that happens, take note of how far you've turned. Then turn that amount the opposite way. That should get you pretty close. Here's that video: Just tried it and my first shot was in...yihaaa...maybe I was lucky...lol...tnx for explaining it mate...tnx... |
|
|
|
Post by Errol1967 on Jul 15, 2016 11:27:53 GMT -5
Just wanted to pop in and say that Boomer's tips on putting do work. My problem is because my eye sight is so bad and I don't have the biggest monitor in the world, it takes a long time for me to line up a putt using this method. However, the reason I know it works is because when I went in the other direction after getting the lines to go flat, my marker ended up where it would have ended up using the system I do use which has been very accurate for me. It's easier to understand but harder to implement because it involves reading break speed. But for those who are maybe a little confused on the "get the lines flat" method or have poor res monitors or bad eyes or whatever, you might want to try this. I break down the break speeds (how fast the lines move) into 3 speeds. Full Speed Half Speed Drip Speed After a while, you can tell the difference between the 3 with relative ease. After I've determined the break speed I then take the putt distance and break it down into blocks. A block is from the hole (which will always been in the center of your grid box) to the center of the next grid box. That distance relatively corresponds to 10 feet of putting distance. This is where the speeds come in. On a 10 foot putt, a full speed break would be one full block. On a 10 foot putt, a half speed break would be a half a block or to the edge of the first block. On a 10 foot putt, a drip speed break would be one quarter of a block or about 2.5 distance from the hole to the right or left depending on how the break is going. To simplify this for any distance, for full speed breaks, you take the distance of the putt and multiply by 1 and then divide by 10. That will give you the number of blocks you have to move either right or left. So a 23 foot putt would be 2.3 blocks you have to move right or left. A 17 foot putt would be 1.7 blocks right or left. For a half speed putt, you simply take the above calculation and then divide by 2. So a 23 foot putt would be 1.15 blocks right or left and a 17 foot putt would be .85 blocks right or left. For a drip speed putt, you simply take the above calculation and then divide by 4. So a 23 foot putt would be .6 blocks right or left and a 17 foot putt would be .4 blocks right or left. Naturally, you still have to adjust your marker for uphill or downhill putts and allow for green speed. But by using this method, your line to the hole is going to be very close. You shouldn't miss by very much. The advantage of this method is that it's easier (at least for me) to see the lines moving than to try to figure out when the lines lay flat. Again, bad eyes. The disadvantage is that there is obviously a lot more math to do. But if you do it and can read your breaks correctly as far as speed, this method is very accurate. Problems will arise when the break between you and the hole is not consistent, such as breaking one way for half the distance and the other way for the other half, or when part way the break is fast and part way the break is slow or even non existent. This gets very complicated. What I do is take the total distance of the putt, say 23 feet, and look to see how far the break is fast (say the first 8 feet) and how far the break is slow or non existent. I then apply that percentage to the calculation I would do for max (assume fast all the way through) So, for a 23 foot putt with a full speed break for 8 feet and no break for 15 feet, I would do the calculation for the fast break, coming out to 2.3 boxes and then multiply that by 8 and divide by 23. That will give you about 3/4 of a box or about .75. One other thing about this method. It's more accurate the longer the putt. As the putts become shorter (putts around 6 to 8 feet are very hard) the method is less accurate. I haven't done the math yet to figure out why but it probably has something to do with the rounding. As you round large numbers, the margin of error is less. Rounding small numbers, like 3.6 to 4, the margin is of course greater. But I can't verify this just yet. It's just a hunch. Anyway, use whichever method you're most comfortable with. They both work. I verified this by using Boomer's and seeing that it was winding me up in the same place as my method. My method, for me anyway, is just quicker because I don't have to battle with the screen resolution problem of trying to figure out when the lines go flat. On my PC, it's very tough and takes me a good 60 seconds or more. My method I can do in about 10 seconds tops. Hope this helps. In the meantime, I have to go work on the 2 areas of my game that totally suck. Firm Greens Lofting Boomer's pitching wedge tip is going to help me a lot here. Thanks again. This is very handy sir:). Works a lot faster and it's also a great tip for people who can calculate fast. As for the tip of BoomBoom...I like it also and it's not an exploit or a cheat...it's a way how to read the green...since I know this...I play a lot better. Atm I use the method of wagtunes. Anyway... I thank both players for these great tips...you should be both awarded. Kind regards. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2016 11:31:09 GMT -5
Just wanted to pop in and say that Boomer's tips on putting do work. My problem is because my eye sight is so bad and I don't have the biggest monitor in the world, it takes a long time for me to line up a putt using this method. However, the reason I know it works is because when I went in the other direction after getting the lines to go flat, my marker ended up where it would have ended up using the system I do use which has been very accurate for me. It's easier to understand but harder to implement because it involves reading break speed. But for those who are maybe a little confused on the "get the lines flat" method or have poor res monitors or bad eyes or whatever, you might want to try this. I break down the break speeds (how fast the lines move) into 3 speeds. Full Speed Half Speed Drip Speed After a while, you can tell the difference between the 3 with relative ease. After I've determined the break speed I then take the putt distance and break it down into blocks. A block is from the hole (which will always been in the center of your grid box) to the center of the next grid box. That distance relatively corresponds to 10 feet of putting distance. This is where the speeds come in. On a 10 foot putt, a full speed break would be one full block. On a 10 foot putt, a half speed break would be a half a block or to the edge of the first block. On a 10 foot putt, a drip speed break would be one quarter of a block or about 2.5 distance from the hole to the right or left depending on how the break is going. To simplify this for any distance, for full speed breaks, you take the distance of the putt and multiply by 1 and then divide by 10. That will give you the number of blocks you have to move either right or left. So a 23 foot putt would be 2.3 blocks you have to move right or left. A 17 foot putt would be 1.7 blocks right or left. For a half speed putt, you simply take the above calculation and then divide by 2. So a 23 foot putt would be 1.15 blocks right or left and a 17 foot putt would be .85 blocks right or left. For a drip speed putt, you simply take the above calculation and then divide by 4. So a 23 foot putt would be .6 blocks right or left and a 17 foot putt would be .4 blocks right or left. Naturally, you still have to adjust your marker for uphill or downhill putts and allow for green speed. But by using this method, your line to the hole is going to be very close. You shouldn't miss by very much. The advantage of this method is that it's easier (at least for me) to see the lines moving than to try to figure out when the lines lay flat. Again, bad eyes. The disadvantage is that there is obviously a lot more math to do. But if you do it and can read your breaks correctly as far as speed, this method is very accurate. Problems will arise when the break between you and the hole is not consistent, such as breaking one way for half the distance and the other way for the other half, or when part way the break is fast and part way the break is slow or even non existent. This gets very complicated. What I do is take the total distance of the putt, say 23 feet, and look to see how far the break is fast (say the first 8 feet) and how far the break is slow or non existent. I then apply that percentage to the calculation I would do for max (assume fast all the way through) So, for a 23 foot putt with a full speed break for 8 feet and no break for 15 feet, I would do the calculation for the fast break, coming out to 2.3 boxes and then multiply that by 8 and divide by 23. That will give you about 3/4 of a box or about .75. One other thing about this method. It's more accurate the longer the putt. As the putts become shorter (putts around 6 to 8 feet are very hard) the method is less accurate. I haven't done the math yet to figure out why but it probably has something to do with the rounding. As you round large numbers, the margin of error is less. Rounding small numbers, like 3.6 to 4, the margin is of course greater. But I can't verify this just yet. It's just a hunch. Anyway, use whichever method you're most comfortable with. They both work. I verified this by using Boomer's and seeing that it was winding me up in the same place as my method. My method, for me anyway, is just quicker because I don't have to battle with the screen resolution problem of trying to figure out when the lines go flat. On my PC, it's very tough and takes me a good 60 seconds or more. My method I can do in about 10 seconds tops. Hope this helps. In the meantime, I have to go work on the 2 areas of my game that totally suck. Firm Greens Lofting Boomer's pitching wedge tip is going to help me a lot here. Thanks again. This is very handy sir:). Works a lot faster and it's also a great tip for people who can calculate fast. As for the tip of BoomBoom...I like it also and it's not an exploit or a cheat...it's a way how to read the green...since I know this...I play a lot better. Atm I use the method of wagtunes. Anyway... I thank both players for these great tips...you should be both awarded. Kind regards. I will fall back on my putting method when I can't get a flat line read, which happens at times and especially with certain light colored greens. Very hard to see. But BoomBoom's is the first thing I try on every putt because I find it more accurate IF you can get the read just right. |
|
|
|
Post by boomboom on Jul 15, 2016 12:06:28 GMT -5
Next tip........
Course Management.......
Some may have heard that term before, some maybe not, but allow me to explain it in a bit more detail.
Golf is a great game because it looks so easy yet is impossible to master. Golf is a game much like chess. You can move your way around a course, firing as far down the fairway as you can and firing at every pin, sure it wont kill you, but you are not going to succeed with that strategy.
It starts from the beginning of the hole, do you have a game plan, is driver the club, what side of the fairway do i want, is another club an option to a better lie. Is firing at the pin the shot or has the designer given another option.
Simply put, what has the designer intended for you on the hole.
There are millions of options and scenarios, blasting driver and firing at the pin works for some holes, some courses, just not all the courses all the holes. Its a hard game, respect the intelligence needed to play it well and play it with the sh-it the lord gave you between your ears.
Have fun and play well.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2016 12:14:49 GMT -5
Next tip........ Course Management....... Some may have heard that term before, some maybe not, but allow me to explain it in a bit more detail. Golf is a great game because it looks so easy yet is impossible to master. Golf is a game much like chess. You can move your way around a course, firing as far down the fairway as you can and firing at every pin, sure it wont kill you, but you are not going to succeed with that strategy. It starts from the beginning of the hole, do you have a game plan, is driver the club, what side of the fairway do i want, is another club an option to a better lie. Is firing at the pin the shot or has the designer given another option. Simply put, what has the designer intended for you on the hole. There are millions of options and scenarios, blasting driver and firing at the pin works for some holes, some courses, just not all the courses all the holes. Its a hard game, respect the intelligence needed to play it well and play it with the sh-it the lord gave you between your ears. Have fun and play well. Yes, yes, yes. A thousand times yes. One of the things I learned that has made a huge difference in my game is how to handle par 5s. I used to just hit it as far as I could and try to always make the green in 2. Now I learn to tell when a landing in 2 is a curse, especially when the green is super long and the pin is tucked in the front. No way are you making that 3rd shot for eagle and many times, because of the breaks you'll encounter along the way, you won't even make birdie. I have learned when to lay up and by how much because I've noticed that, at least for me, certain pitches to the green (for me between 35 and 55 yards) are almost sure birdies and sometimes even eagles. But those are the easy holes. The hard ones are the par 4s where there doesn't seem to be any good landing area no matter what you do. Usually, I have found, a lot of that has to do with, as you said, which side of the fairway you land on, and how you actually decide to play that hole on the approach. Some holes, for me anyway, if the hole is close to the fringe (4 to 7 yards off) I'll actually try to land it in the rough and chip for birdie. On firm greens, I have a better chance of making birdie, or at least par, than if I went for the green. I have so far to go yet, but I just torched Smuggler's Loch for 14 under. And a lot of that had to do with course management. Every now and then I'm still tempted to go for that green in 2. More times than not, I'm sorry I did. |
|
|
|
Post by mde8965 on Jul 15, 2016 12:56:32 GMT -5
Both of the putting tips (boomboom and wagtunes) are awesome. As I said earlier in the tread, I knew about boomer's putting tip. But complained that often I cannot see when the line becomes flat. Now armed with wagtunes tip, I have an option for those circumstances rather than just taking a wild guess.
Thanks to you both!!
PS. Can you please delete this thread now ...LOL
|
|
|
|
Post by ErixonStone on Jul 15, 2016 16:32:28 GMT -5
High Point No. 17 is a great example. It's a short par 4, measuring under 300 yards. The green is reachable in favorable winds although it is elevated a bit from the tee. It is fronted by a small apron of fairway, and then a cliffside water hazard.
The green itself has a narrow point of entry at the front, but widens in the back. There are 3 tiers - highest in the back and lowest in the front - divided by extremely steep slopes. The middle tier is only about 15 feet deep front-to-back, while side-to-side, it's about 40 feet wide. The pin is in the center of the middle tier.
The fairway starts out well to the right and sweeps around the coastline, but it is set downhill from the tee, meaning there is a fairly steep climb from the landing area to the green.
There are two options on the hole, provided there is a bit of a tailwind, which is the conditions I had for my round. In this case, reaching the green puts you in a very difficult position because the drive is likely to roll up the slopes and onto the back tier. From there, the slope to the middle tier is so steep that any putt will roll well past the cup and find the front slope and be escorted to the front.
Instead, the better play is to find the fairway to the right where you'll have a fairly easy approach with plenty of room to accommodate any backspin. Putts from on the middle tier are quite flat and even a longer putt is makeable. Playing out to the right will result in a birdie more than half the time, while playing directly to the green will yield very few eagles or birdies and could put a red number on your card.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2016 16:44:41 GMT -5
High Point No. 17 is a great example. It's a short par 4, measuring under 300 yards. The green is reachable in favorable winds although it is elevated a bit from the tee. It is fronted by a small apron of fairway, and then a cliffside water hazard. The green itself has a narrow point of entry at the front, but widens in the back. There are 3 tiers - highest in the back and lowest in the front - divided by extremely steep slopes. The middle tier is only about 15 feet deep front-to-back, while side-to-side, it's about 40 feet wide. The pin is in the center of the middle tier. The fairway starts out well to the right and sweeps around the coastline, but it is set downhill from the tee, meaning there is a fairly steep climb from the landing area to the green. There are two options on the hole, provided there is a bit of a tailwind, which is the conditions I had for my round. In this case, reaching the green puts you in a very difficult position because the drive is likely to roll up the slopes and onto the back tier. From there, the slope to the middle tier is so steep that any putt will roll well past the cup and find the front slope and be escorted to the front. Instead, the better play is to find the fairway to the right where you'll have a fairly easy approach with plenty of room to accommodate any backspin. Putts from on the middle tier are quite flat and even a longer putt is makeable. Playing out to the right will result in a birdie more than half the time, while playing directly to the green will yield very few eagles or birdies and could put a red number on your card. Which is why with all the charts and all the math, unless you know how to best approach holes like these, there is only so good you're going to get. I am learning that the hard way. |
|
|
|
Post by Errol1967 on Jul 15, 2016 17:03:17 GMT -5
I was testing those tips from boomboom, but I can't get the ball in the put... Only on very short distance...I think I realy suck...lol. Dont know what Im doing wrong at this point. I give up...I will stick in CC-E and maybe CC-Z if this continues.
|
|
