TGCT - Tips & Tricks (approach, chipping & putting)

[clayg3]

ok I see this what about the wind 8 mph in your face
do you add any thing for this

[Doyley]

Jan 19, 2015 20:58:03 GMT -5 clayg3 said:

ok I see this what about the wind 8 mph in your face
do you add any thing for this

add at least 150%-200%.  So anywhere from 12-16 yards.

which brings your total to 132-136 yards.  Play for that.

If wind is at your back, take your 120 and subtract 7 or 8 yards...play for 112 yards.

[SmilingGoats]

A wind in your face is a headwind in Doyley's document. So he says take 150-200% and add that to the yardage.

I think there is some variation here which is why he gives the range but I'll typically ballpark it closer to the 150%. So for your 8 mph wind in your face, I would add 12-13 yards.

If the wind was behind (a tailwind), I would subtract 75%-100%...leaning closer to 100% in most cases. So an 8 mph tailwind would reduce the overall yardage by 7-8 yards.

[SmilingGoats]

And Doyley beat me to it.

[clayg3]

I see that that's ok I need all the help I can get
on this subject.

ok scenario A says number 3 150% of the wind ( 8 ) and add that.

I guess I need to know what the 150%  and the ( 8 ) is sorry about this but i

never had to do math like this in any golf game.    

maybe someone needs to take me to a golf course with some elevation

and show me first hand on how to do this I do have Skype.

[Deleted]

When taking both wind and elevation into acount, the distance of your shot makes a difference, using a pitching wedge for a 120 yard shot 20 feet uphill requires a different approach in math as a 3 iron 20 feet uphill, wind also.

I mostly do a 1 to 1 with wind on long irons, but decrease or increase on woods and short irons. It's all about feel for me in that perspective.

Also, I divide by 4 and not 3 on the longer elevation changes.

[rjrosco]

Great tips here, appreciate. Problem iam having is swinging consistently at 100% with ps4 controller. You can get the maths perfect but if you hit it 88% then good luck. Got to push the stick a bit harder forward consistent iam guessing. Practice practice practice.

[Pubknight]

Jan 19, 2015 20:44:48 GMT -5 clayg3 said:

ill never understand this elevation thing.

This picture will hopefully help visualize why if you are hitting 'uphill' you need to add effective yardage, and if hitting 'downhill' why you need to deduct effective yardage:
The chart (stolen from the tubes of the internet somewhere talking about real golf) shows the following-
assuming a 160 yard 6 iron on flat ground.
If you were hitting into a green that was 140 yards away, but at 20 yards above elevation (60 feet), you effectively need to hit your 160 yard club to get it there.
In contrast, 180 yard green, 20 yards below elevation, again, that 160 yard 6 iron is what is needed.
Hope this helps.

[billybudd0623]

Just curious, if you have an eleven mile crosswind, how much do you adust for this? I can't seem to get these winds accurate. Or another if the wind is coming in your face at say towards 4 or 5 o'clock. What do you do?

Thanks Bill

[Doyley]

I find that most crosswinds (in your face between 4 and 8 oclock) are usually within the 150% of the wind.

So if I had 11 mph winds coming at me at 5-oclock, I'd still adjust for an extra 16-17 yards.

Even if it is a straight cross wind (9/3 on clock) I would add a few yards due to the extra distance the ball will travel due to the curved arc the wind will push it on.

[mnguy12000]

for me the major elev change south is hard. Say you have a 135 yard shot, down hill to a green 50 feet below. if you do the math that would be like 17 yards, but you you now hit that shot 117, you are WAY short. So I have basically been taking a club and adding loft to mid way to the first line. Still a little long but not as bad as club to a PW then lofting a little bit. So maybe with Elev changes down more than 20 feet I should use 4 or 5 yards then

[Doyley]

Jan 20, 2015 16:36:17 GMT -5 mnguy12000 said:

for me the major elev change south is hard. Say you have a 135 yard shot, down hill to a green 50 feet below. if you do the math that would be like 17 yards, but you you now hit that shot 117, you are WAY short. So I have basically been taking a club and adding loft to mid way to the first line. Still a little long but not as bad as club to a PW then lofting a little bit. So maybe with Elev changes down more than 20 feet I should use 4 or 5 yards then

That would line up with what Taste has said (major changes use 4 as a divider)

[Deleted]

im currently struggling with sidehill breaking putts. i can make them but its a lottery.

[bentfivewood]

I'll add to this conversation by saying the elevation in combination with the wind messes with yardage as well.  If you are hitting into a wind and there's a drop in elevation, the ball is in the air longer and thus, the wind has more of an effect, making for shorter yardage than you would think.  The opposite is true of an uphill shot with a head wind.  For tailwinds, the ball will not be aided as much as you would think on uphill shots and obviously will aid more on downhill.  Making slight adjustments to distances based on this idea can help you a lot in windy conditions.  This idea should also be considered when adjusting loft.

And the last point is about roll.  When shooting uphill the ball comes in more shallow but have greater spin which messes with the way the ball rolls, like trying to hit an uphill flop shot to a back to front sloping green.  Downhill is tricky because it should have less roll but it hits harder and has less roll because rotation has slowed.

[Deleted]

im spending a lot of time on the col sanders practice course. it's very helpful and i find i do better at the breaking long putts if i get down to the level of the ball.