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Post by jacquesy123 on Jul 15, 2016 23:03:47 GMT -5
Hey guys, I'm about to start a new build and wanted to get some arguments about light rough and Heavy rough, my current course that I am a member of, just had straight to heavy rough, no light rough and I'm thinking of doing this?
Just wanted to ask what you guys thought
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Post by roblandon on Jul 16, 2016 13:48:10 GMT -5
Hey guys, I'm about to start a new build and wanted to get some arguments about light rough and Heavy rough, my current course that I am a member of, just had straight to heavy rough, no light rough and I'm thinking of doing this? Just wanted to ask what you guys thought I say do it, it will look a lot more tidy than say with light rough but if your making a fairly easy course make the fairways more generous than normal
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Post by Bacon on Jul 16, 2016 15:47:13 GMT -5
Hey guys, I'm about to start a new build and wanted to get some arguments about light rough and Heavy rough, my current course that I am a member of, just had straight to heavy rough, no light rough and I'm thinking of doing this? Just wanted to ask what you guys thought If you're looking at getting your course accepted into the TGCTours database, and possibly have it host a tournament, then I'd definitely check with one of the Rangers. I don't think any of the courses I've played since joining 5 weeks ago had heavy rough touching the fairway. They generally want a band of light rough, from what I've read. If you're just doing this for yourself or as an RCR, then I'd say go for it. If anyone questions it, just act offended and bring up artistic license, then moan about being misunderstood by the commoners of society as you walk away.
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Post by jacquesy123 on Jul 16, 2016 17:05:00 GMT -5
Nice mate yea, i think it looks better also it would be nice if we could get the light rough to match the same colour as the heavy rough as its rough at then end of the day,
I'll just see what it looks like
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Post by ErixonStone on Jul 16, 2016 23:59:26 GMT -5
Having no light rough is fine as long as it is a consistent theme throughout the course. Also, if you plan on ditching the light rough, plan to provide a more generous landing area than usual - and that includes preventing players from running through the fairway.
Also make sure that if a second shot has to carry water, that there is some bail-out area the player can advance to. Nothing is worse than having to flop out into the fairway because it's 200 yards across the lake.
Spectacle Island is an example of a course that did not have any light rough, and that course was used on Euro.
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Post by Bacon on Jul 19, 2016 16:42:05 GMT -5
I watched Taste's video last night about drawing out a hole and then using the red brush to "cut away" the fairway. I'll definitely be giving that a try at some point.
But the video raised a question I've had since my first hour or two in the designer: What is the purpose of the red brush? Is removing fairway what it was intended to do, or is this just a weird side-feature? I played with it for 30 minutes or so when I first got into the GNCD and could never figure out a reason for it to exist.
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Post by welikeitroughnc on Jul 19, 2016 18:40:11 GMT -5
I watched Taste's video last night about drawing out a hole and then using the red brush to "cut away" the fairway. I'll definitely be giving that a try at some point. But the video raised a question I've had since my first hour or two in the designer: What is the purpose of the red brush? Is removing fairway what it was intended to do, or is this just a weird side-feature? I played with it for 30 minutes or so when I first got into the GNCD and could never figure out a reason for it to exist. I use it to remove fairway when I'm doing bunkers in the middle of my fairways
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Post by pyates on Jul 19, 2016 19:05:48 GMT -5
I watched Taste's video last night about drawing out a hole and then using the red brush to "cut away" the fairway. I'll definitely be giving that a try at some point. But the video raised a question I've had since my first hour or two in the designer: What is the purpose of the red brush? Is removing fairway what it was intended to do, or is this just a weird side-feature? I played with it for 30 minutes or so when I first got into the GNCD and could never figure out a reason for it to exist. I believe it is an odd side effect. I remember hearing either Anthony or Paul from HB saying they watched taste's video surprised at how he used it. I believe the idea behind it all comes from the auto gen days. So you would sculpt the terrain for your plot using red brush, fairways and greens etc applied on top of the 'red' terrain would then level out making the holes playable, in theory, without need for further sculpting. Blue brush was intended for detail work. Turns out though that none of us want auto flattening fairways or greens!! Lol
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Post by ErixonStone on Jul 19, 2016 22:00:16 GMT -5
The important thing to note about the red brush is that it alters elevation of natural, unmodified terrain. Once the terrain is altered in any way (covered in any surface, modified by a blue brush, etc.) then the red sculpting is superseded.
However, the base level still remains in the background. If the base level falls below the water table (i.e. zero elevation), then you cannot place fairway or green surfaces there.
As you see in tastegw's video, you can use this property to intentionally "cut" sections of fairway away. On the other hand, this attribute sometimes unintentionally prevents you from placing a fairway or green down where you want it.
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Post by Bacon on Jul 19, 2016 23:30:06 GMT -5
Thank you all for the clarification! That has been bugging me for over a month now. I searched the HB forums for anything about the red brush, and even Googled without luck.
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Post by Bacon on Jul 23, 2016 16:07:16 GMT -5
After playing with the GNCD some more, I've discovered that I absolutely suck at planting. It doesn't help that XB1 takes 3 seconds between every piece of grass to update. Any videos or tips would be greatly appreciated! I've bookmarked a couple of Canuck's videos, which may help, but I think it's always a good thing to be able to compare different techniques.
Also, do you guys recommend a band of fairway around the green, similar to the band of rough (so green>fairway>light rough>heavy rough)? I noticed Taste mention that some of the courses in his reviews didn't have an apron. Not sure if this is considered standard or not, but I figured you guys would know.
Thanks a ton for all your help so far. Creating is already becoming much more manageable.
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Post by ErixonStone on Jul 23, 2016 17:25:45 GMT -5
1. Canuck's PC is a beast. His method of planting by rapidly pressing the A button and moving the cursor around doesn't work on consoles or less powerful PCs. Us mortals have to wait between each plant.
2. You don't have to encircle the green with fairway. I didn't do this on La Playa Vacia and that course was received quite warmly by the community. However, the transition/blending where green, fairway, and rough all meet doesn't always look too good. The transition looks better with fairway surrounding the green.
3. Fairway surrounding the green allows the designer to add additional challenge to the course by creating steep run-offs that make recovering from a missed green a little bit more difficult.
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Post by scarpacci on Jul 25, 2016 11:12:55 GMT -5
I'll add some tips to planting but Canuck is really the plant man so I do recommend you follow his direction.
1. Work with the auto-generated trees, grass and plants as much as possible. It will really save you a ton of time and aggravation. I find starting with everything on max will help me "find" some holes and give me a lot of good ideas for hazards and such. I turn everything down to zero when I'm laying down surfaces and sculpting as it helps speed things up (less delay between clicks, especially with the plant/grass on zero). After that I turn everything back up and remove and add to the auto gen stuff to fill it in.
2. Focus on the high traffic areas. Keep your heavy planting to areas that will be most visible (tee box, landing zone & greenside). Heavy planting outside of these areas is a waste of valuable resources, will affect performance and rarely ever be seen.
3. Chill out with the grass. Grass is the devil. Absolute resource hog that isn't properly reflected in the object meter. It looks great up close (see #2), but isn't visible from distance which leads to magic clumps of grass appearing as you get closer.
4. Do not use the multi-plant tool. Seriously. don't use it. Ever. Not even once.
5. Use the bushes in the tree category as much as possible. They don't suffer from the draw distance issues of other plants and bushes. Unfortunately you can't rotate these bushes but you can use different bushes and sizes to get a good base and then fill in with the other stuff.
Hope this is helpful. Things have been really hectic for me at work but once I get some free time I'll start making some more vids.
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Post by Bacon on Jul 25, 2016 23:30:10 GMT -5
Super useful. Looking forward to some more videos.
I did the same as you suggest in number 1 with my current course. Set some trees, water, and hills, then let the land dictate where the holes go (but sculpted where needed, obviously). I laid out the entire course, first with distance markers, then with the "add holes" tool. Still working on laying out the actual holes, but I've discovered that there's an art to it, and as I get better I'm redoing a lot of what I already had done. It will be my first published course, but that's no excuse to make it totally suck lol.
I'll take the rest of your advice to heart. I'm generally only using grass around the water, which seems to be fairly common, especially with this week's course (Harlequin). It looks great up close, but I see what you mean from a distance. Haven't found any other plant types that give as good a luck up close, though.
Anyway, thanks a ton for the advice. You too, Patrick. I'd already put runoff areas with fairway on a couple of holes, so going back now to make everything uniform. You guys are awesome.
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Post by Errol1967 on Jul 26, 2016 6:52:33 GMT -5
Super useful. Looking forward to some more videos. I did the same as you suggest in number 1 with my current course. Set some trees, water, and hills, then let the land dictate where the holes go (but sculpted where needed, obviously). I laid out the entire course, first with distance markers, then with the "add holes" tool. Still working on laying out the actual holes, but I've discovered that there's an art to it, and as I get better I'm redoing a lot of what I already had done. It will be my first published course, but that's no excuse to make it totally suck lol. I'll take the rest of your advice to heart. I'm generally only using grass around the water, which seems to be fairly common, especially with this week's course (Harlequin). It looks great up close, but I see what you mean from a distance. Haven't found any other plant types that give as good a luck up close, though. Anyway, thanks a ton for the advice. You too, Patrick. I'd already put runoff areas with fairway on a couple of holes, so going back now to make everything uniform. You guys are awesome. Yeah same here...like some more videos on designing too, especially planting and pinlocation (greensculpting) Also I like to know how you topdesigners start? Everything of? Start flat? Trees, water etc? Kind regards.
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