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Post by hammo24983 on Aug 25, 2015 6:00:14 GMT -5
No doubt there is a thread on this somewhere but I'm too lazy to go find it so please help. I've noticed that all the good players use draw/fade to counteract cross wind, are there any equations or methods that you use? I'm Having trouble knowing how much draw/fade to put on in relation to the strength of wind. If Anyone is willing to give up their secrets on this I'd be very appreciative  |
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Post by dh-nufc on Aug 25, 2015 6:22:31 GMT -5
I'd like to know this too. I've been searching but no luck. I know I've seen it recently somewhere. I've been trying myself but not found any pattern yet. I started adding one box for 10MPH side wind and that worked sometimes but was off others. It must be related to the club I guess. I'll continue to adjust my aim until I get a method working.
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Post by blackaces13 on Aug 25, 2015 7:11:35 GMT -5
One box is more than 10 yards, I'd say more like 14. Fighting the wind also cuts distance, but I don't have a good gauge on just how much.
Fwiw, I almost never use it. You definitely don't need to use draw/fade to be competitive at a high level.
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Post by boomboom on Aug 25, 2015 7:15:06 GMT -5
I hate using it, it's so fake. However there are plenty of times where we have no choice due to trees blocking etc.
1 box for every 11 mph of cross wind.
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Post by blackaces13 on Aug 25, 2015 7:23:52 GMT -5
How is drawing or fading into wind fake?
"Uplofting" a 3-iron so that it flies as far as a 7-iron but stops quicker is fake. Having pinpoint control over flop shots is fake. Working the ball into the wind is not.
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Post by AFCTUJacko on Aug 25, 2015 7:30:14 GMT -5
I hate using it, it's so fake. However there are plenty of times where we have no choice due to trees blocking etc. 1 box for every 11 mph of cross wind. Pros often shape shots to hold them against the wind. I agree it's exaggerated, but then so is a 10mph wind blowing a golf ball 20 yards off target. |
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Post by HeMan1202 on Aug 25, 2015 7:42:49 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it.
I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me.
D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box
3I-6I - 12mph per one box
7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants)
I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers.
If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though.
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Post by dh-nufc on Aug 25, 2015 8:18:40 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. Thanks hammo. I'll try that in practice tonight. |
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Post by misternic on Aug 25, 2015 8:48:34 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. I agree with most of the above. I usually just try and "take the edge off" the wind, taking maybe 75% off the wind and letting it "drift" back to target. I do use draw/fade on certain approach shots to get the right angle due to sloping. |
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Post by hammo24983 on Aug 25, 2015 9:28:49 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I can't see me personally using draw fade all of the time, but when you have a pin cut right and the wind is going left, you have no choice. These ideas will give me something to work on. Thanks again |
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Post by misternic on Aug 25, 2015 9:49:15 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I can't see me personally using draw fade all of the time, but when you have a pin cut right and the wind is going left, you have no choice. These ideas will give me something to work on. Thanks again Yes, cuz what you have needed the last 8 weeks is "help". Think you have it figured out pretty good of late.  |
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Post by settlerofcatan on Aug 25, 2015 12:29:23 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. Totally agree on this. I find that 14/15mph on the drive is just about one box and then it moves down as you go down clubs. This is a great starting point. The biggest issue I run into with this method is taking into account sidehill lies. Those mess up the equation for me so I am constantly experimenting and adjusting for various lies and wind scenarios. Getting better but it takes time to get the feel! |
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Post by hammo24983 on Aug 25, 2015 14:12:42 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I can't see me personally using draw fade all of the time, but when you have a pin cut right and the wind is going left, you have no choice. These ideas will give me something to work on. Thanks again Yes, cuz what you have needed the last 8 weeks is "help". Think you have it figured out pretty good of late. Haha. In all seriousness I got found out this week. Second round cost me and yet other guys still scored well. I have a way to go before I can compete on the Pga tour so always looking for ways to improve |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2015 14:47:31 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I can't see me personally using draw fade all of the time, but when you have a pin cut right and the wind is going left, you have no choice. These ideas will give me something to work on. Thanks again Yes, cuz what you have needed the last 8 weeks is "help". Think you have it figured out pretty good of late. When I saw who created this thread I wanted to tell him it was 40 mph per box.  I use the fade/draw in two ways: In crosswinds on a tee shot that has higher winds or the fairway is narrow, I have the same basic principle as Nic mentioned, but I do it a little differently. I will move the draw/fade opposite of the wind just about 1/4 of a box (1/3 if the wind is really high) and adjust where I aim for the rest. I think this helps combat a mishit that would be even more exaggerated by the wind (i.e. a bit of a slice into a left to right wind for a RH golfer). For approaches a lot more comes into play. Trying to run the ball along and taking advantage of a slope on the green to get to a tucked pin is one useful way to implement fades and draws. Then there is hitting it around a tree that occasionally does happen. The Barclays event this week has a par 5 that has a tree that looms large on the 2nd shot and you have to be creative if you have the ball on the wrong side of the fairway. Lastly is to take off the side to side movement of your ball when you go pin hunting. In a bigger wind, the ball will have a fair bit of momentum in the same direction as the wind and when it lands, it may roll out, sometimes significantly in bigger crosswinds of 15 and up. By using an opposing fade/draw as a "block" cuts down on the side to side movement, but also takes off some distance. There is a lot of trial and error in this approach and personal tastes vary on trying to move the slider left/right to counteract 100% of the wind or 50% and aiming the other 50%. Kind of scares me that a player as good as you already are will apply this going forward, so I reiterate... every box is equal to 40 mph wind.  |
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Post by hammo24983 on Aug 25, 2015 17:47:09 GMT -5
Yes, cuz what you have needed the last 8 weeks is "help". Think you have it figured out pretty good of late. When I saw who created this thread I wanted to tell him it was 40 mph per box. I use the fade/draw in two ways: In crosswinds on a tee shot that has higher winds or the fairway is narrow, I have the same basic principle as Nic mentioned, but I do it a little differently. I will move the draw/fade opposite of the wind just about 1/4 of a box (1/3 if the wind is really high) and adjust where I aim for the rest. I think this helps combat a mishit that would be even more exaggerated by the wind (i.e. a bit of a slice into a left to right wind for a RH golfer). For approaches a lot more comes into play. Trying to run the ball along and taking advantage of a slope on the green to get to a tucked pin is one useful way to implement fades and draws. Then there is hitting it around a tree that occasionally does happen. The Barclays event this week has a par 5 that has a tree that looms large on the 2nd shot and you have to be creative if you have the ball on the wrong side of the fairway. Lastly is to take off the side to side movement of your ball when you go pin hunting. In a bigger wind, the ball will have a fair bit of momentum in the same direction as the wind and when it lands, it may roll out, sometimes significantly in bigger crosswinds of 15 and up. By using an opposing fade/draw as a "block" cuts down on the side to side movement, but also takes off some distance. There is a lot of trial and error in this approach and personal tastes vary on trying to move the slider left/right to counteract 100% of the wind or 50% and aiming the other 50%. Kind of scares me that a player as good as you already are will apply this going forward, so I reiterate... every box is equal to 40 mph wind. Haha, got it, 1 box for 40mph! After playing the Barclays for fun last night and playing with disturbed Ghost ball, it made me realise I have a long way to go before I can compete with the real big boys in this game. Hence the reason for this thread. Thanks for the advice |
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