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Post by edi_vedder on Aug 25, 2015 19:21:26 GMT -5
I doubt that all good players use that method just to be competitive.
I also doubt you need fade/draw shaping on approach shots just to get it close to the pin.
Just my 2 cents...
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Post by blackaces13 on Aug 25, 2015 19:23:09 GMT -5
You definitely don't. I almost never use it. Ride or die.
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Post by hammo24983 on Aug 25, 2015 19:57:08 GMT -5
I doubt that all good players use that method just to be competitive. I also doubt you need fade/draw shaping on approach shots just to get it close to the pin. Just my 2 cents... I have played with your ghost Tom and noticed you don't use it. It's really just for instances for example when it's a strong right to left wind and the pin is hard on the right side. The only chance of getting it close is to shape it back into the wind  |
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Post by boomboom on Aug 25, 2015 20:24:49 GMT -5
How is drawing or fading into wind fake? "Uplofting" a 3-iron so that it flies as far as a 7-iron but stops quicker is fake. Having pinpoint control over flop shots is fake. Working the ball into the wind is not. I agree with all your points, I would just add working the ball with draw and fade with precision accuracy is also fake. Not trying to get into an argument, just stating my opinion that's all.
BTW, I do not use draw or fade to combat the wind unless given no choice, I also never have lofted up a 3 iron, I can only recall flopping once. I however see nothing at all wrong with others doing these things though, everyone plays the game as they wish, and I'm glad there are multiple choices of shots.
On that point though, I would honestly prefer the game to go with draw and fade with x-axis and remove the option altogether, and remove most of the lofting requiring power to knock off distance.
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Post by edi_vedder on Aug 25, 2015 22:09:53 GMT -5
I doubt that all good players use that method just to be competitive. I also doubt you need fade/draw shaping on approach shots just to get it close to the pin. Just my 2 cents... I have played with your ghost Tom and noticed you don't use it. It's really just for instances for example when it's a strong right to left wind and the pin is hard on the right side. The only chance of getting it close is to shape it back into the wind You are right, I hardly ever use it. Only under very special circumstances. The one you described above is one of them. ^^ |
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Post by blackaces13 on Aug 26, 2015 5:26:41 GMT -5
I agree with all your points, I would just add working the ball with draw and fade with precision accuracy is also fake. Not trying to get into an argument, just stating my opinion that's all. Fair enough. The golfer in this game has more control over his ball than any real world golfer ever has, but you still have people complaining that it's not enough. |
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Post by Brighttail on Aug 26, 2015 17:56:27 GMT -5
I doubt that all good players use that method just to be competitive. I also doubt you need fade/draw shaping on approach shots just to get it close to the pin. Just my 2 cents... I have seen the top players who have used fade/draw on every shot, like Bradley and others who hardly ever use it like MrSourNinja. Using fade/draw or not using it on every shot both has advantages and disadvantages. To me a good player uses BOTH methods depending on the shot. When you don't use it and the ball will tend to go a little further (especially on the green) in the direction of the wind. So if you want to avoid rolling down a hill, drawing the ball in to a fade wind may be the best way to accomplish this. At the same time there may be tight pins which are tucked in the far, back right of a green. Letting the ball naturally fade while aiming to the center of the green may be the best way to get it close. This is what I love about this game, there isn't any ONE or BEST way to play it. People like Bradley, Brionne, Sweeny all use every type of shot at their disposal. It is like some people prefer to pitch from 75 yards out and others prefer to take a natural LW. For me it depends on a LOT of factors as to which I'm using. Bottom line, there is no "right" way, only a farrago of half-way decent ways. **Don't know what a "farrago" is? Look it up.. Learn something new!** |
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Post by canthitstraight on Sept 2, 2015 2:42:01 GMT -5
Thanks for teaching me a new word today, Brighttail! I'll use it in place of hodgepodge next time I want to sound a little more refined.  |
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Post by Brighttail on Sept 2, 2015 8:22:19 GMT -5
Thanks for teaching me a new word today, Brighttail! I'll use it in place of hodgepodge next time I want to sound a little more refined. Anytime. |
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Post by canthitstraight on Sept 5, 2015 12:27:46 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. I recently started experimenting with draws and fades on irons, so this chart should be very helpful. Too worried about a huge hook to be using it on drivers though. |
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Post by Brighttail on Sept 5, 2015 14:32:39 GMT -5
When you get winds of 18-20 mph.. even if you went 1 1/2 boxes over for a driver (which is hard to keep in the red) as the ball travels and after it starts coming down from the top of the arc, the spin that you put on to go against the wind dies and the wind takes over. This is why I usually try to keep it within a box and then move my aiming marker into the wind. Same with lofted clubs.
With squirt, it becomes a guessing game and luck to be honest.
Even in the lower winds I have a tendency to aim into the wind a little and use a little less fade/draw . This way if squirt happens then by you moving over a bit, that helps mitigate it and if the squirt is the other way, then the fade/draw you put on it helps mitigate it.
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Post by smurfblade88 on Sept 5, 2015 16:20:13 GMT -5
When you get winds of 18-20 mph.. even if you went 1 1/2 boxes over for a driver (which is hard to keep in the red) as the ball travels and after it starts coming down from the top of the arc, the spin that you put on to go against the wind dies and the wind takes over. This is why I usually try to keep it within a box and then move my aiming marker into the wind. Same with lofted clubs. With squirt, it becomes a guessing game and luck to be honest. Even in the lower winds I have a tendency to aim into the wind a little and use a little less fade/draw . This way if squirt happens then by you moving over a bit, that helps mitigate it and if the squirt is the other way, then the fade/draw you put on it helps mitigate it. The fact we hav to allow for a ball squirt at all is pretty pathetic. |
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franz joop
Weekend Golfer
Posts: 98 
TGCT Name: Franz Joop
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Post by franz joop on Sept 6, 2015 23:52:10 GMT -5
until they fixed the swing (hahaha)..i was unaware you could move the slider left or right to fade/draw....i was just hitting the ball either side of straight line in cone for my draw and fade...now i am struggling to come to grips moving the slider to the right place for wind ...hopefully soon i can get a better understanding of it ..
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lehmanwins
Weekend Golfer
Posts: 85
TGCT Name: MJ Pineault
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Post by lehmanwins on Sept 7, 2015 15:26:50 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. Thank you for this. Saw this post and won the following week after only playing 9 holes practicing with it. |
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franz joop
Weekend Golfer
Posts: 98
TGCT Name: Franz Joop
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Post by franz joop on Sept 7, 2015 20:42:53 GMT -5
Well, since the wind effect is exaggerated there is nothing wrong with using an exaggerated draw/fade to combat it. I saw this somewhere, have adopted it, and it works well for me. D/3W/5W - 14mph per one box 3I-6I - 12mph per one box 7I-LW - 10mph per one box (remember the higher the ball is in the air, the more the wind takes it where it wants) I never go more than one box over because it reduces the cone a little too much for me. I will just use the click method in combination for anything over these wind numbers. If you want to start hitting shots close to the pins on approach, the fade/draw should be used. It is still a little bit of a crap shoot when you are dealing with 18-20mph winds though. Thank you for this. Saw this post and won the following week after only playing 9 holes practicing with it. mmmm. i just used method on CC tour, i think it 15 hole 220 + yard par 3 , wind was 15mph crosswind right to left so used slider a box to right , now i expected the ball to go pretty straight , but i shaped left to right straight off tee and hit rough before bouncing in water ..that a fair way against wind....but i must say the last 2 rounds of the tournament were strange , my maths was spot on first two rounds then same maths produced many shots that fell 20 yards short of green ... |
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