High Transition fittings?

[dougboz00]

How important do you all think a high Transition fitting is??? Thanks.

[cseanny]

On Driver, Irons, and woods, not very important at all. You can still hit 101% power and never shrink your Timing window with mid 60s Transition. Power scales, that is, you can get 101.01 up to 101.99, and I'd guess it takes approximately 101.7ish and higher to shrink the Timing window. And even when it does shrink, as long as you don't hit a higher end 102 it's has a nominal impact. At most, a high end 101% will net you a loss of -2 skill points in Timing shrinkage. If someone plays outside of the Meta of 101% and deliberately goes for less than 100%, you still don't need a high Transition. It's very easy to hit under 100% power on a consistent basis with a low Transition rating.

Fyi, the last column of skills, the always active Leve 1, OR, 2, OR level 3 add +6 skill points. So if you have 94 Timing with irons and you choose Level 3, from the fairway you'll have +100. Timing.

[RD]

Just into this game of about 3 weeks. Have confidence where to aim and distance for approach shots and around the green. However, more often hitting late (Too much power) cs hitting early.

My novice though would be to increase the transition # for iron sets and wedges. Unsure how this is accomplished? Still confused about fittings: Head, shaft, & grip.

[up mup kupen nup]

Head, shaft, and grip are just three slots where you can put your fittings in. The effect of the respective fitting is independent of the location where the fitting is assigned.

In my opinion, transition fittings are only important if you hit many partial shots. I prefer reducing or increasing distances by lofting/delofting, whence shot shaping is more important to me. Moreover, transition is counteracting swing path, which is a crucial attribute for my particular style of play. I have low transition on all clubs and overswing all the time (mostly 101%, with the driver even 102%), but it doesn't hurt my game (add extra carry!).

To give you an idea, I focus on:

- Power, Swing Path, Shot Shaping for driver and woods
- Power, Swing Path, Lie Range for longer irons
- Timing, Swing Path, Shaping, for shorter irons and wedges

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

[RD]

Thanks for the thoughts regarding transition and possible other considerations. I’ve mapped my clubs: NS, FS, FL+FS.

I try to avoid partial shots as you indicated. When the alternative will not work, it’s usually in the 90% - 95% and accuracy is need!

*I have attempted the percentage level below what is needed hoping I don’t overpower!

*My game patch request: Add % range indicators to FS & FL.

Again thanks!