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Post by blueblood1995 on May 25, 2021 22:50:08 GMT -5
Can anyone point me please to a thread on how pulling back the marker by 2 or 3 yds impacts the swing speed and timing. I know I've read something somewhere on this topic but can't for the life of me remember where. Will bookmark once found! Thanks in advance XBoxers!
I tried pulling back 2 or 3 yds and it seemed to help with timing. Not sure if this is just a placebo effect or it is actually something meaningful.
Cheers
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Post by cseanny on May 26, 2021 2:53:20 GMT -5
just recalibrated for sh*ts and giggles. Why oh why did I do that! Now I'm hitting grey fasts instead of perfects with what I would consider the same tempo as before. Clearly I've adopted the "If it ain't broke, bloody fix it anyway" approach. Upon re-calibration, 5 VF/F and 5 VS/S will give you a default type center calibration. If you want your Perfect shifted L, i.e., you are currently striking grey fasts, then just make sure the next calibration uses a higher VF/F to VS/ S ratio. So 6 to 4, or 7 to 3, or 8 to 2, 9 to 1, or finally, 10 to 0! And of course, this works vice versa to shift tempo Right.
So yeah, the worst way to calibrate is by trying to hit 10 shots at perfect! Don't fall into that trap.
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Post by blueblood1995 on May 26, 2021 3:27:34 GMT -5
just recalibrated for sh*ts and giggles. Why oh why did I do that! Now I'm hitting grey fasts instead of perfects with what I would consider the same tempo as before. Clearly I've adopted the "If it ain't broke, bloody fix it anyway" approach. Upon re-calibration, 5 VF/F and 5 VS/S will give you a default type center calibration. If you want your Perfect shifted L, i.e., you are currently striking grey fasts, then just make sure the next calibration uses a higher VF/F to VS/ S ratio. So 6 to 4, or 7 to 3, or 8 to 2, 9 to 1, or finally, 10 to 0! And of course, this works vice versa to shift tempo Right.
So yeah, the worst way to calibrate is by trying to hit 10 shots at perfect! Don't fall into that trap.
Riiiiiiiiiight! Thanks for the tip. So why does the game ask you to hit x10 "same tempo" swings? I'm all sorts of confused at the moment but I'll try your x5 VF-L and x5 VF-R. Problem is there's no round shot meter when calibrating so how do you know 100% what type of tempo shot has been hit? |
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Post by blueblood1995 on May 26, 2021 3:28:54 GMT -5
Also, do you mean...
If you want your Perfect shifted R, i.e., you are currently striking grey fasts...
Thanks
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Post by cseanny on May 26, 2021 3:49:48 GMT -5
Also, do you mean... If you want your Perfect shifted R, i.e., you are currently striking grey fasts... Thanks No. That would make your current greys possibly turn into Red Fasts. You want your new perfect to be shifting Left, or where your current grey fast is.
In regards to why not 10 normal shots, you already kinda answered your own question in the rest of your previous post  . IF we had shot feedback for calibration shots this would make a little more sense. Only a "little" more because regardless, it's still more difficult to hit "perfects", or close to perfects consistently. It's very easy to swing VF, or at the minimum, fast enough to strike a RF, and vice versa, with slows, even if we can't see shot feedback.
You can still easily tell VF and VS by sound, or when your Avatar takes one of their hands off the club at the end of the swing. Again, even a barely RF or RS works too, albeit those can't be seen o_^.
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Post by lessangster on May 26, 2021 6:01:50 GMT -5
Can anyone point me please to a thread on how pulling back the marker by 2 or 3 yds impacts the swing speed and timing. I know I've read something somewhere on this topic but can't for the life of me remember where. Will bookmark once found! Thanks in advance XBoxers! I tried pulling back 2 or 3 yds and it seemed to help with timing. Not sure if this is just a placebo effect or it is actually something meaningful. Cheers Pulling back the intent shifts your calibration point left so no good if your hitting red fasts but ideal if your hitting grey slows. The calibration I’m using at the minute gives me one grey fast, two perfects and a grey slow, but I still get the odd red fast out of nowhere and red slows because my thumb slips off. I daren’t touch the calibration now. |
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Post by blueblood1995 on May 26, 2021 6:12:41 GMT -5
Can anyone point me please to a thread on how pulling back the marker by 2 or 3 yds impacts the swing speed and timing. I know I've read something somewhere on this topic but can't for the life of me remember where. Will bookmark once found! Thanks in advance XBoxers! I tried pulling back 2 or 3 yds and it seemed to help with timing. Not sure if this is just a placebo effect or it is actually something meaningful. Cheers Pulling back the intent shifts your calibration point left so no good if your hitting red fasts but ideal if your hitting grey slows. The calibration I’m using at the minute gives me one grey fast, two perfects and a grey slow, but I still get the odd red fast out of nowhere and red slows because my thumb slips off. I daren’t touch the calibration now. How did you achieve this? Was it deliberate or by luck? And now you won't dare touch it!  |
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Post by lessangster on May 26, 2021 6:26:01 GMT -5
Pulling back the intent shifts your calibration point left so no good if your hitting red fasts but ideal if your hitting grey slows. The calibration I’m using at the minute gives me one grey fast, two perfects and a grey slow, but I still get the odd red fast out of nowhere and red slows because my thumb slips off. I daren’t touch the calibration now. How did you achieve this? Was it deliberate or by luck? And now you won't dare touch it! Shear dumb luck I calibrated before the nerf and it’s working now so I don’t want to touch it. I didn’t use any of the techniques like five very fast five very slow I just hit the 10 shots on the range like I normally do. |
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Post by fsu831 on May 26, 2021 8:30:54 GMT -5
It might just be me. I use original wireless Xbox controller with original Xbox 1 and find the game totally unplayable now. I calibrate my swing and if I plan for a fast downswing, meaning I swing faster on the downswing for feel and not looking for a fast on the swing meter, and it calibrates for perfects, the next day the game will switch my calibration to a smooth normal tempo which is not how I play or calibrated in the first place. Chips and pitches are a joke. Sand shots, don’t even get me started. I can’t hit a drive above 260 on a 280 club. I have to use two clubs up to get to the green in regulation bc most likely I will have a slight fast on the meter which drops me easily 20 yards.
Just my soap box. 🤷♂️
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Post by dansamp on May 26, 2021 9:17:44 GMT -5
How did you achieve this? Was it deliberate or by luck? And now you won't dare touch it! Shear dumb luck I calibrated before the nerf and it’s working now so I don’t want to touch it. I didn’t use any of the techniques like five very fast five very slow I just hit the 10 shots on the range like I normally do. This is on pro though right, not Master? |
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Post by lessangster on May 26, 2021 9:39:41 GMT -5
Shear dumb luck I calibrated before the nerf and it’s working now so I don’t want to touch it. I didn’t use any of the techniques like five very fast five very slow I just hit the 10 shots on the range like I normally do. This is on pro though right, not Master? Yeah Pro I would only get one perfect on master but two grey slows, one just outside the white the other close to a red slow. |
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Post by dansamp on May 26, 2021 11:14:08 GMT -5
This is on pro though right, not Master? Yeah Pro I would only get one perfect on master but two grey slows, one just outside the white the other close to a red slow. Yep makes sense, just didn't want people getting confused thinking there is some OP calibration on XB that results in two points inside the Perfect window on Master. I haven't found that yet, and don't think it exists. |
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Post by zzfr33b1rdzz on May 26, 2021 12:49:16 GMT -5
Yeah Pro I would only get one perfect on master but two grey slows, one just outside the white the other close to a red slow. Yep makes sense, just didn't want people getting confused thinking there is some OP calibration on XB that results in two points inside the Perfect window on Master. I haven't found that yet, and don't think it exists. I have been collecting screen shots when I hit perfect as I am interested in seeing how many points I actually do hit on the wheel. I can say for a fact that I have at least 2 pics that are 'perfect' - one is just left of dead center, the other is just right of center - I can only assume that dead center is also a point, I just haven't gotten a snip of it yet - and yes, I am on Master.. Oh, and this is with the Bridgestone 'Purple' 295 yard club.. |
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Post by jp44 on May 26, 2021 13:16:43 GMT -5
Yep makes sense, just didn't want people getting confused thinking there is some OP calibration on XB that results in two points inside the Perfect window on Master. I haven't found that yet, and don't think it exists. I have been collecting screen shots when I hit perfect as I am interested in seeing how many points I actually do hit on the wheel. I can say for a fact that I have at least 2 pics that are 'perfect' - one is just left of dead center, the other is just right of center - I can only assume that dead center is also a point, I just haven't gotten a snip of it yet - and yes, I am on Master.. Oh, and this is with the Bridgestone 'Purple' 295 yard club.. Because of the odd number (125hz) on the XB polling rate, your typical polling points will get rounded to either side, on occasion, if the calculation occurs in that small window of timing. Please don't ask me to explain as I get a little lost in the technical details of all of this, but based on how its been explained to me and the results I've seen it makes sense. I think you will find you have one "perfect" spot that you hit about 80-90% of the time, and two separate points on either side of that that will be hit about 10-20% of the time. For me that brings my left edge perfect to a grey fast sometimes (more than just the shrinkage of the perfect window) or a dead nuts perfect. Same thing with fast and slows. Happens very rarely but I will occasionally even get my red slow polling point to shift to a grey slow. I think that's only on my forgiving wedges though. That is the only time I am ever able to get grey slow on a normal full shot, my perfect polling point never shifts far enough right (even on severe shot shaping with my 294 driver) to get a grey slow. There could be a discussion for us XB folk as to which calibration point may be the most beneficial... I have kept my perfect calibration on the left edge of perfect because I think that its more beneficial to hit a grey fast than a grey slow when you get the odd mistiming of the polling rates. The negative side to it is that my Red Fast is more severe than me Red Slow (~10yds) and I miss more on the fast side than slow side. I've been trying to weigh out if it would be any more beneficial to have a "dead nuts" perfect calibration to make both Red misses "equal", but worry that it would bring in the potential for grey Fast and Slow misses when the polling skips a beat. Not sure if having a "dead nuts" perfect that is soooo in the middle might actually take away the grey fast and slow entirely? Making it so both the randomly timed polling points are in the perfect as well? Somebody down south get cseanny an XB so we can find out! |
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Post by sanchez on May 26, 2021 13:40:19 GMT -5
I personally think calibration is bullsh1t..i just calibrated without looking where i hit & i am no different from where i was before.
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. IF we had shot feedback for calibration shots this would make a little more sense. Only a "little" more because regardless, it's still more difficult to hit "perfects", or close to perfects consistently. It's very easy to swing VF, or at the minimum, fast enough to strike a RF, and vice versa, with slows, even if we can't see shot feedback. 
