Post by hickoryghost on Dec 3, 2020 21:14:52 GMT -5
I posted a few examples of pot bunkers in the courses under construction section, but figured that I may as well put this info where people can search for it.
I found a good way to make riveted faces a few years ago and built a few bunkers that way. I published "Sleeping Bear Dunes Par 3" in 2019 and that course has one on the 16th hole and one on the 18th hole I believe. Since then I built one more on a test lab type course that I have going.
The process is tedious, but I'm just calling attention to it in case someone has the patience to try to implement it across an entire links course.
Method 1- Excruciating to do, but can look incredible.
STEPS:
Use Delta theme (so that the ground will get sandy when ground gets sculpted)
Sculpt the bunker before you add any fairway or rough. i.e. use the natural ground.
Optional- Use raise brush to make a gentle mound bigger than what your bunker will be
use the hard edge circle or oval flatten brush to punch down your bunker into the mound. Let the far side be high and the side you'd enter be closer to ground level so that the face is visible to players hitting toward it.
Take the hedge (under fences) and use the shorter one. Pick a level to do your rivets and lower the hedge down into the ground until just a little bit peaks out. Take another, keep it at the exact same level, rotate a bit and continue the line little by little until you complete a full row.
Then, raise or lower the hedge slightly for the next row and repeat until done.
After the face is finished, drop in your fairway, rough, etc, but leave the face of the bunker sandy.
To get the weathered look, take a heavy rough brush, make it as small as it gets and then drop one dash of rough outside the top edge of the bunker. You just want a touch of it so that it bleeds down. Have to try a few times usually to get it right. Can also do this trick from the bottom to bleed up.
Method 2- much faster and good for a quick lining on shallower bunkers.
With this method, I just take the dead tree (in plants) and line the face. The bark lines give it that horizontal, sandy rivetted look.
This is way quicker, but doesn't look at good from up close. The wood can be a little too brown and wood-like in appearance. And a ball that hits it might ricochet instead of hit dead. I haven't tested it, but assuming that is what would happen.
The tree shape is a little irregular, so this isn't quite as easy to do. Takes more raising and lowering with each added piece until it looks right.
Hope this helps. If you improve on this technique or have alternative ones, let's see it!
I found a good way to make riveted faces a few years ago and built a few bunkers that way. I published "Sleeping Bear Dunes Par 3" in 2019 and that course has one on the 16th hole and one on the 18th hole I believe. Since then I built one more on a test lab type course that I have going.
The process is tedious, but I'm just calling attention to it in case someone has the patience to try to implement it across an entire links course.
Method 1- Excruciating to do, but can look incredible.
STEPS:
Use Delta theme (so that the ground will get sandy when ground gets sculpted)
Sculpt the bunker before you add any fairway or rough. i.e. use the natural ground.
Optional- Use raise brush to make a gentle mound bigger than what your bunker will be
use the hard edge circle or oval flatten brush to punch down your bunker into the mound. Let the far side be high and the side you'd enter be closer to ground level so that the face is visible to players hitting toward it.
Take the hedge (under fences) and use the shorter one. Pick a level to do your rivets and lower the hedge down into the ground until just a little bit peaks out. Take another, keep it at the exact same level, rotate a bit and continue the line little by little until you complete a full row.
Then, raise or lower the hedge slightly for the next row and repeat until done.
After the face is finished, drop in your fairway, rough, etc, but leave the face of the bunker sandy.
To get the weathered look, take a heavy rough brush, make it as small as it gets and then drop one dash of rough outside the top edge of the bunker. You just want a touch of it so that it bleeds down. Have to try a few times usually to get it right. Can also do this trick from the bottom to bleed up.
Method 2- much faster and good for a quick lining on shallower bunkers.
With this method, I just take the dead tree (in plants) and line the face. The bark lines give it that horizontal, sandy rivetted look.
This is way quicker, but doesn't look at good from up close. The wood can be a little too brown and wood-like in appearance. And a ball that hits it might ricochet instead of hit dead. I haven't tested it, but assuming that is what would happen.
The tree shape is a little irregular, so this isn't quite as easy to do. Takes more raising and lowering with each added piece until it looks right.
Hope this helps. If you improve on this technique or have alternative ones, let's see it!