WIND

[TAGROCKET]

Does anyone have an accurate way to calculate CLICKS for the wind? I mean in TW is was fairly accurate and repeatable, but in this shooting match, there is NO accurate way to know what you are doing with the wind and your golfer.
  Some use the fade/draw grid which is ANOTHER inaccurate way to TRY and get your ball going where it needs to, others use the keyboard click which again is very susceptible to being inconsistent to say the least, others use the controller click which, TO ME, is very inconsistent.  
  A click on a controller is not the same as a click on the keyboard, so said all that to say "is there a fool proof way of considering the wind" on every shot??
Thanks in advance!

[punchnclown]

I'll tell you my method but I don't use clicks. Bear in mind I'm a middle of the pack WEB player so others may have better methods.
My method is more for approach shots to the green. For shots to the fairway I guess/know how far to move left or right for the most part.
OK lets assume you have a flat lie and the wind is running directly East or West. For the 7,8,9 and wedges I count 1 grid for each mph and aim that far left or right to compensate using the green grid.
For Driver through 6 iron I multiply the wind by 1.5 and move that amount again using the green grid. Of course with side hill lies or angled winds you will need to compensate more or less depending on the situation.

[Deleted]

I play all on feel clixx just feels wrong 2 me

[edi_vedder]

This may sound harsh, but...

It's not about feeling right or wrong, it's all about being successful (or not).

This also applies to super-lofting, calculating, chart abusing, creepy flopping and whatever else comes into your mind.

[smurfblade88]

The secret to allowing for wind is this

Wind force × 75% of elevation change ÷ 10% of total club carry = eg answer 17

Then to multiply ur answer by 3

Eg answer 51

U then do 51 miniclicks in the opposite direction of the wind.

Its easy once u get the hang of it.

I taught TROWELHEAD this technique when he was off work with a broken neck and he hasnt looked back since.

[xraylucy]

My click system works pretty good. 2 per mph cross wind. for drivers and wedges a little less.
Hitting the ball straight, not just within the red cone but dead straight, is also something that needs practicing.

[mde8965]

Dec 18, 2016 21:33:06 GMT -5 smurfblade88 said:

The secret to allowing for wind is this

Wind force × 75% of elevation change ÷ 10% of total club carry = eg answer 17

Then to multiply ur answer by 3

Eg answer 51

U then do 51 miniclicks in the opposite direction of the wind.

Its easy once u get the hang of it.

I taught TROWELHEAD this technique when he was off work with a broken neck and he hasnt looked back since.

You forgot the calculation of the tangent and consign. But I guess your "simplified" answer will get you reasonably close.

[TAGROCKET]

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated. A few things, REALLY Smurfblade88 lol!!!
The other thing is basically the reason I posted "what the heck is a mini click or a real click for that matter, it's guess work and that's what I wanted to take out of the equation.
I do appreciate the input though!!

[mde8965]

Actually TAGROCKET I use the draw and fade method for side winds more than 5mph and directionally this can get you really close. Generally using the shot shaper grid 1 full grid draw or fade compensates for about 14mph of side wind for woods. From there on down I usually go at it at a 10mph to 1 grid ratio. In other words I'm hitting a 5i and the wind is blowing 7mph from left to right I use the shot shaper to move (draw) left about ¾ of one grid.

Like I said directionally this works well for me. The issue is because you are drawing into the wind in my example it cuts your distance some. For a direct side wind I usually add about 30% of the side wind speed to my distance if using draw or fade. More or less depending on size of club and strength of wind. The distance thing on these shots gives me a hard time. And if anyone had a good tip for distance compensation using fade or draw into the wind I would love to read it.

[HeMan1202]

Honestly just play the game and eventually you will know where to put your marker for every wind speed. Same with club yardages and loft, you will just know. You don't have to put it to within a foot every time, you just need to put it close enough to make the putt. Just play round after round and it will become natural to you.

[pablo]

I close my eyes and move the hand randomly around the controller. Sometimes I push the stick and hit the ball

[hammo24983]

Dec 18, 2016 21:33:06 GMT -5 smurfblade88 said:

The secret to allowing for wind is this

Wind force × 75% of elevation change ÷ 10% of total club carry = eg answer 17

Then to multiply ur answer by 3

Eg answer 51

U then do 51 miniclicks in the opposite direction of the wind.

Its easy once u get the hang of it.

I taught TROWELHEAD this technique when he was off work with a broken neck and he hasnt looked back since.

Does this system allow for squirt as well? 😂

[TROWELHEAD]

  Failing all the above av sufficient alcohol ,usually 10 pints,so u just dont give a shite where it goes hahaha 

[mde8965]

Jan 2, 2017 6:04:53 GMT -5 TROWELHEAD said:

  Failing all the above av sufficient alcohol ,usually 10 pints,so u just dont give a shite where it goes hahaha 

THIS! Is the advice I think I need to follow. So sick of practicing 5 strokes better per round than I play in the tournaments because I get all nerved up. Over a damned video game for fake money....sheesh!!! Yup about three stiffs before the rounds would mellow me right the heck out...

[nevadaballin]

A simplified method. If there is a direct crosswind east or west, then half a grid box = 7mph. Some think it is 6 but I believe it to be 7. This does not apply to pitch shots and longer flop shots. You will need to expand a bit more for those.

The rest (diagonals) are pretty much relative to the math of half a box - 7mph. Your higher lofted clubs will need a bit more but i've found this works pretty well down to the 7 iron.