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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2020 19:26:29 GMT -5
I'm going to try his method step by step tomorrow
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Post by gamesdecent on Mar 14, 2020 10:20:09 GMT -5
I must've missed an important tidbit in it then, will watch again. Is there a place where he says 'if you do x/y/z it won't auto-sculpt the playing surfaces?' The only time surfacing changes the sculpting is if it’s something you haven’t sculpted by hand already. Unless the red brush does something in that regard, I’m not sure, I’ve never used the red brush.
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Post by b101 on Mar 14, 2020 10:34:02 GMT -5
I must've missed an important tidbit in it then, will watch again. Is there a place where he says 'if you do x/y/z it won't auto-sculpt the playing surfaces?' The only time surfacing changes the sculpting is if it’s something you haven’t sculpted by hand already. Unless the red brush does something in that regard, I’m not sure, I’ve never used the red brush. Actually, it is the red brush that does this. As far as I understand it, red brush on flatten essentially resets the terrain so that green and fairway surfaces no longer autoflatten (whereas bunkers still do, for some reason). If you just blue brushed all the plot, without touching the red, you’d still see the greens and fairway autoflatten. This way, what you see is what you get.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2020 10:36:22 GMT -5
Ok so it's specifically Flatten with the red brush it sounds like
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Post by b101 on Mar 14, 2020 10:38:00 GMT -5
Ok so it's specifically Flatten with the red brush it sounds like The video really does explain it best - not much more to add!
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Post by gamesdecent on Mar 14, 2020 12:03:12 GMT -5
The only time surfacing changes the sculpting is if it’s something you haven’t sculpted by hand already. Unless the red brush does something in that regard, I’m not sure, I’ve never used the red brush. Actually, it is the red brush that does this. As far as I understand it, red brush on flatten essentially resets the terrain so that green and fairway surfaces no longer autoflatten (whereas bunkers still do, for some reason). If you just blue brushed all the plot, without touching the red, you’d still see the greens and fairway autoflatten. This way, what you see is what you get. I flatten the whole plot with the blue brush, then do all my own sculpting with the blue brush and never have any terrain change when I lay a surface down.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2020 12:24:11 GMT -5
If I had to guess, it probably comes from flattening out all of the autogenerated terrain with the blue brush. Pan flat, no lumps at all. And then whatever is added on top of it works just fine.
Just followed the video instructions and it worked exactly as one would expect, but perhaps the red brush step isn't necessary?!?
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Post by 15eicheltower9 on Mar 14, 2020 12:35:17 GMT -5
Everybody's right here. Either brush will do it as long as the terrain is altered. And you can't just raise the terrain and call it altered. You actually have to alter it with the red or blue part of the brush. Or use the flatten brush. Basically if the land doesn't move in relation to the land right around it, it is unaltered. This is why Jeremy's method is effective. He's essentially altering every square inch of the plot. Also, any red brush you use has to be before you alter any land with the blue brush. Once you do that the red brush will only alter base terrain or terrain you've altered with any red brushes. The red brush raise that Jeremy starts with will raise the whole base terrain above the water table so you don't get that weird missing texture anywhere. Then by flattening everything with the blue brush, making all the land move he's created a clean slate. Once you do that the red brushes will no longer move the land, (so it now makes it obsolete in the process) only the base terrain. (That's a whole new topic). Then he does his thing and touches every square inch of the plot with the blue brush. Nothing will auto smooth now. I've used a form of alter 9 times now. Alter. TEN!!
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Post by ErixonStone on Mar 14, 2020 16:09:46 GMT -5
The SCULPT command (red brush) by itself will not prevent the land from auto-flattening when you lay fairway or green surfaces.
Only modifying the terrain using the LANDSCAPE command (blue brush) will prevent auto-flattening.
The red brush is used to raise the base terrain above the water table to prevent the case where your green or fairway surface will not appear in some spots.
My best advice is to use the red brush to raise the terrain above the water and to eliminate all puddles. Then follow up and build your plot using the blue brush.
Another note: if you modify the terrain only with the SCULPT command (red brush), then the "Hills" terrain setting still impacts the land. That's why you cannot get a completely flat plot using only the red brushes.
The LANDSCAPE command supersedes the SCULPT command which is why, after using the blue brushes, the red brush appears to have no effect.
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Post by 15eicheltower9 on Mar 14, 2020 17:52:57 GMT -5
The SCULPT command (red brush) by itself will not prevent the land from auto-flattening when you lay fairway or green surfaces. Only modifying the terrain using the LANDSCAPE command (blue brush) will prevent auto-flattening. The red brush is used to raise the base terrain above the water table to prevent the case where your green or fairway surface will not appear in some spots. My best advice is to use the red brush to raise the terrain above the water and to eliminate all puddles. Then follow up and build your plot using the blue brush. Another note: if you modify the terrain only with the SCULPT command (red brush), then the "Hills" terrain setting still impacts the land. That's why you cannot get a completely flat plot using only the red brushes. The LANDSCAPE command supersedes the SCULPT command which is why, after using the blue brushes, the red brush appears to have no effect. If you modify the land with the sculpt brush it will stay as you modified it when you lay a fairway. Fairways only auto flatten the bumps and hills that are generated when you load a plot. It's true of the landscape brushes as well. If you take the sharp square brush and sculpt raise or landscape raise the plot 40 feet, the hills that are auto-gened will still flatten. If you take a rugged brush and spin it around the same way you did in your video, whether ladscape or sculpt brush, the resulting hills and bumps you've created will stay. You will get a small amount of smoothing if you used the sculpt brushes because as you said, the sculpt brushes don't flatten out the auto-gen bumps, but the result is essentially the same.
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Post by 15eicheltower9 on Mar 14, 2020 18:10:24 GMT -5
A video, because, why not?
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