Wagtunes Farewell To CC Message
Jun 10, 2016 8:46:07 GMT -5
roblandon, t0ad462, and 7 more like this
Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 8:46:07 GMT -5
8...long...months.
I joined TGC Tours in October of 2015.
And I sucked...BIG TIME.
Very few people were as bad at this game for so long as I was. Sure, lots of folks start out struggling, but as was said to me by Ola and Doyley, most people pick this game up quickly.
Not me.
+83 at Q School. Started in D and actually struck out down to E and stayed there forever. My game was going nowhere.
I was thinking of quitting.
Then I had a few people help me out (thank you all so much) and to make a long story short, I'll be playing in my first Web event as an actual Web member next week.
But I don't want this message to be about me. So that's where it ends.
This is about the CC community and what I'm leaving behind. So here goes.
1) I will still be setting up the mega practice tours each week for you guys. And I will still be playing the courses so that maybe I can offer some insight on playing them, especially for the newer players who might be struggling a bit.
2) This, however, is the most important thing. You might want to copy and paste what follows into a Word Doc or something. I am going to be sharing a simplified version of what the PGA/Euro guys use to post the scores they do. It is not as in depth. It won't take you to the higher levels just as it won't take me there either. I don't have the patience to do the in depth math analysis that these guys do. So this is more or less a poor man's cheat sheet. For those of you already in the upper tiers, none of this will probably help you in the least. But for those of you struggling with these courses, I am confident that if you follow my guideline, it WILL make you a better golfer. I mean look what it did for me. I could have never made it this far without this procedure. And the only reason I waited this long to share it is because I felt that unless I made the Web with it, I had no credibility. Now maybe I have at least a little.
So here goes,
Wagtunes Way To The Web Cheat Sheet
Step 1) Nothing I say from this point on is going to make a hill of beans difference until you straighten out your swing. For me, it meant getting a new controller as the one I bought used (big mistake) was shot from the beginning.
Now, I do have a technique that makes pulling a shot almost impossible. It may take you a little time to learn it but for me, it works wonders.
Do not hold the joystick between your fingers. This leaves too much room for error in jerking it to either side.
What I do is put the fleshy part of the bottom of my thumb on the lower half of the joystick and simply flick it upwards. This reduces the chances of "pulling" it to either side. It may take a while, but once you get used to this, you'll find it is very easy to control. I used to squeeze the stick between my fingers but no more. Now, almost every shot is near dead center of the cone,
If you have trouble with pulling shots, try it. If you're shots are still pulling then your joystick may be shot and it may be time to get a new one.
Once the swing is straightened out, now you can go about the simplified math that I've come up with without having to worry about deviations because of pulled shots.
I am going to use one example for all that follows. You can apply it to any length shot with some minor adjustments that I will cover. Don't worry. Nothing will be left out.
Step 2) Calculating Distance. Elevation and Wind Effects
You have a 170 yard approach shot. The green is 24 feet above your head. The wind is blowing in (south) at 10 mph.
What is the effective distance you have to carry?
Let's take the elevation first. This is simple. 24 feet is equal to 8 yards (24/3). So you simply add 8 yards to your shot. So this is now effectively a 178 yard approach shot.
What about the wind?
This is where things get complicated because the wind has different effects depending on the direction and club you're using. We'll do this example first and then we'll change the wind direction so you can see the different effects.
There are essentially 5 different wind direction pairs in this game.
North
South
East
West
Northeast/Northwest
Southeast/Southwest
Again, this is a simplified sheet so I'm keeping these calculations easy.
Variables Used
WS = Wind Speed
HD = Hole Distance
NHD = New Hole Distance
Okay, let's start from North and work our way down
North - NHD = HD - WS
South - NHD = HD + 1.5 x WS
East - NHD = HD
West - NHD = HD
Northeast/Northwest - NHD = HD - .75 x WS
Southeast/Southwest - NHD = HD + WS
That takes care of the distance. But what about on shots where the ball isn't going straight out such as when it's being blown east to west? There we have to now start clicking our aim circle either right or left of the flag.
But how much?
Here's the cheat sheet for that.
East
(Driver and Woods) 2 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 4 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 2 x WS to the right
So let's say your wind speed from the east is 12 mph and you're firing off the tee. You'd make 24 clicks to the right from the spot on the fairway you want to land. I'll get to fairway aiming later.
If it's an approach shot with a 6 iron, you'd make 48 clicks to the right from the spot on the green you want to hit.
For short pitches, you're back to 24 clicks.
For West, just exchange the word right with left.
The remaining ones are the tough ones as well as the in between shots. Not everything fits into one of these scenarios. For example, a shot that isn't quite directly north but isn't as far as northeast. What do you do? Those shots require on th fly subtle adjustments and come from experience. But they'll be somewhere between north and northeast as far as the calculations go. So you'll always be in the ball park. You'll have your most trouble on very strong winds.
But let's get to northeast and northwest.
Northeast
(Driver and Woods) 1.5 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 2 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 1.5 x WS to the right
For northwest, just exchange right with left
Moving onto Southeast and Southwest
Southeast
(Driver and Woods) 1.5 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 2 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 1.5 x WS to the right
For southwest, just exchange right with left.
And that's it for adjusting for elevation and wind.
Let's do 3 different examples so you can get an idea of how quickly you can do this.
Example 1)
156 yard approach shot to green that is 15 feet below you. Wind is blowing from the east at 18 mph.
15 feet is 5 yards. Subtract from 156 giving you 151
Wind is from east so no other change to distance.
Speed is 18 mph so you click 72 times to the right
That's it. It's that simple
Example 2)
181 yard approach shot to green that is 22 feet above you. Wind is blowing northeast (arrow pointing to the right between north and east) at 8 mph.
22 feet is about 7 yards. I round to the nearest whole number. So I add 7 yards to 181 giving me 188 yards. Wind is northeast so I subtract .75 x 8 from hole distance. That's 6 yards. So now I'm back down to 182 yards. So essentially, the wind makes up for the higher elevation.
Example 3)
147 yard approach shot to green that is 38 feet above you with wind blowing straight in at 20 mph.
Okay, 38 feet is about 13 yards. So I add that to the distance giving me 160 yards. 20 mph straight in (South) is 1.5 x 20 or 30 yards added. That now brings us up to 190 yards.
See how fast 147 yards becomes a 190 yard shot?
And that's it. It takes me about 5 seconds to do these simple calculations in my head. The clicking, depending on the wind speed, does slow you down a bit. But it's worth the effort.
But Why Not Just Draw And Fade?
Because the accuracy suffers. I have found when using draw and fade that you really need to be dead center of that arrow and even then, the wind seems to play havoc with your ball when you do this. I only use draw and fade when I have to, such as when I have an obstructed shot or severe dog leg or clicking right or left takes me right into a tree.
Picking Your Spot To Land
This really helped my game a lot once I learned how to do this. Simple.
Hit the Y button on your controller to activate the scout cam. After you've reached the end, squeeze that little lever on the right hand side and it will zoom you right into the very spot you are aiming for. After I pick the spot I want, I then make my adjustments. I almost never miss a fairway now.
Par 5 Strategy
Unless you are 100% sure that your second shot is going to land you on the green and hold it, giving you an excellent shot at an eagle, lay up. Always, always, always. Short pitches from 20 yards out are killers on par 5s because of the spin back.
I try to land between 40 and 60 yards from the pin. That's my sweet spot. The sand wedge default of 45 yards with adjustments (Club selection and loft are next) is usually an eagle anyway or at worst, a 2 foot putt for birdie.
Step 3) Club Selection and Loft
Okay, so you've calculated your effective distance to the pin.
Now what?
You've been given an 8 iron (145 yards) for your 147 yard shot to the green but you've just discovered you have to cover 190 yards.
What do you?
There are too many variables involved at this stage to cover all conditions, such as green speed and firmness. Ultimately, you'll develop your own theory and style and this may change from shot to shot.
You need to cover 190 yards. You know that much.
If the greens are fast and firm, you're probably going to roll 15 to 20 yards. For soft greens, maybe 5 yards. Maybe 10 for medium. This is where the PGA guys have this all down to a science that I just can't be bothered with. I just want to come fairly close. So I make a mental note of the green firmness (you'll get this after hole 1) and do the 5, 10 or 20 depending on that firmness and also depending on where the pin is. If it's tucked in the front of the green with a trap in front of it, you're screwed anyway, so just get as close as you can.
So for this example, let's say the green is regular firmness and the pin is in the back leaving us plenty of room to roll to it.
That means our 190 now becomes about 180 yards, more or less.
What club do we choose?
Well, we could choose the 5 iron (181 yards) and just fire away. Or we can take our 4 iron (195 yards) and loft up a box and a half. Never loft more than a box and a half. I don't like the 3 iron loft up to the top unless I absolutely have to, which I almost never do.
Figuring Loft Adjustment
If you look at the loft box you'll see there are percentages next to every line. I have bad eyes, can't read 'em and don't have the patience to do that kind of math. So I simplified it, even if it's not dead accurate, it's close enough.
Half way up the box is 5 yards.
All the way up the box is 10 yards.
The exceptions are the wedges.
The pitching wedge (120 yards) is 10 yards half way and 20 yards all the way up the first box.
The other wedges are odd numbers below 10. If I want to go 40 yards with my lob wedge I'll go up almost a whole box.
When the distances are that small, it doesn't really matter that much as long as you can putt decently since you'll always be within 10 feet of the hole with these shots. At least you should be from this distance.
Step 4) Putting
I am NOT the world's greatest putter. If I was, I'd be in the PGA by now. The reason I made it to Web is because of how crazy close I get to the pin on a fairly regular basis. So I don't get a lot of long putts.
I have learned a few putting tricks as far as how to read greens that I will share however. These concern very specific green breaks and using the grid boxes.
The Fast Break
Many times you will look at the putt you have in front of you and see that the green is breaking hard right or left going by the speed and steadiness of the beads.
When I see a break like this, I take the distance to the hole and move one full box length (right or left) for every 10 feet.
So let's say I have a 22 foot putt and the green is breaking from right to left hard. Starting from the pin itself, I will aim my marker 2.2 boxes to the right. So the first full box will actually be in the middle of the box to the right of the pin since the pin is always centered in the box by the grid.
The Moderate Break
Not as fast as the fast break. For this, simply half the above calculation. So a 22 foot putt is essentially 1.1 boxes to the right of the pin.
Putt Distance
Use the marker. If you don't, you're just making it harder on yourself.
For putts that go uphill, the software does this for you. But for downhill putts, you need to do this yourself.
An example best illustrates how to do this.
You have a 14 foot putt. It's going downhill with a 3 inch decline. You simply subtract 3 from 14 and move the marker 11 feet away from you. Essentially, you now have an 11 foot putt. Play it like an 11 foot putt.
Simply subtract decline from distance.
How Far Back To Pull The Putter?
Here is how I do it. I do a moderately timed count. 10, 20, etc.
So if I have a 30 foot putt on a 165 speed green, I pull back the putter and go "10, 20, 30" and when I hit 30, I let the putter go.
I've managed to keep a steady count to the point where I am now missing 30 foot putts by less than 2 feet.
It will take you time to get your tempo down just right. There is nothing I can say here to make that happen any faster. Maybe try a stop watch and count to the seconds until you build an internal rhythm.
But What About Short Putts?
Short putts on distance aren't really hard. It's the breaks that kill me. But obviously, on a putt under 10 feet, you want to release that putter BEFORE you even hit 10.
Unfortunately, short putts are more a feel thing than anything else in this game. But if you've done everything above to get to this point, you'll give yourself a better chance of getting short putts.
What About When I Miss The Green?
I was so bad at this game hitting greens that I had to learn to use my lob wedge to get out of scrapes. Because of this, I developed a great technique for pitching out from 9 yards to about 15 yards.
This is what I do in a nut shell.
I take my lob wedge and loft all the way up to the top. This is for 9 and 10 yard shots. For 11, i notch below. For 12, 1 notch below that and so on.
I then pull back the joystick and push it forward like I'm squeezing the trigger of a gun. Not too fast and not too slow.
I've become so accurate with this shot that many times i hit the flag pole.
It will take time to get the technique down but it will save you on shots where chipping isn't an option.
Step 4) Know The Course Inside And Out
As much as I hate saying this, my rise to the Web came about in part because I practiced each course so much before tee time that I knew every inch of every hole. You can't be taken by surprise by a false front on a green or whatever. You need to know every little thing about every hole. If I didn't practice this much, I wouldn't be in the Web right now. I truly believe that.
That's it.
Like I said, you guys in A and B probably don't need this stuff and may even have better systems. This is not going to get anybody to the PGA. It's not refined enough. But I don't have to look at charts and can breeze through a course on 20 to 25 minutes.
Others are of course welcome to offer more advanced and accurate tips. I am sure everybody would welcome them.
I hope they are of help to the players just starting out. I am 100% confident that they will greatly improve your game.
If anybody has any questions, please feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer.
It has been a pleasure playing in CC and I'm going to miss the excitement of dodging the strike line and maybe even getting an SE. But I won't miss worrying about being demoted to the tier below. That was really weighing on me. Now I can relax.
Thank you all for making this the best community on the Internet.
I joined TGC Tours in October of 2015.
And I sucked...BIG TIME.
Very few people were as bad at this game for so long as I was. Sure, lots of folks start out struggling, but as was said to me by Ola and Doyley, most people pick this game up quickly.
Not me.
+83 at Q School. Started in D and actually struck out down to E and stayed there forever. My game was going nowhere.
I was thinking of quitting.
Then I had a few people help me out (thank you all so much) and to make a long story short, I'll be playing in my first Web event as an actual Web member next week.
But I don't want this message to be about me. So that's where it ends.
This is about the CC community and what I'm leaving behind. So here goes.
1) I will still be setting up the mega practice tours each week for you guys. And I will still be playing the courses so that maybe I can offer some insight on playing them, especially for the newer players who might be struggling a bit.
2) This, however, is the most important thing. You might want to copy and paste what follows into a Word Doc or something. I am going to be sharing a simplified version of what the PGA/Euro guys use to post the scores they do. It is not as in depth. It won't take you to the higher levels just as it won't take me there either. I don't have the patience to do the in depth math analysis that these guys do. So this is more or less a poor man's cheat sheet. For those of you already in the upper tiers, none of this will probably help you in the least. But for those of you struggling with these courses, I am confident that if you follow my guideline, it WILL make you a better golfer. I mean look what it did for me. I could have never made it this far without this procedure. And the only reason I waited this long to share it is because I felt that unless I made the Web with it, I had no credibility. Now maybe I have at least a little.
So here goes,
Wagtunes Way To The Web Cheat Sheet
Step 1) Nothing I say from this point on is going to make a hill of beans difference until you straighten out your swing. For me, it meant getting a new controller as the one I bought used (big mistake) was shot from the beginning.
Now, I do have a technique that makes pulling a shot almost impossible. It may take you a little time to learn it but for me, it works wonders.
Do not hold the joystick between your fingers. This leaves too much room for error in jerking it to either side.
What I do is put the fleshy part of the bottom of my thumb on the lower half of the joystick and simply flick it upwards. This reduces the chances of "pulling" it to either side. It may take a while, but once you get used to this, you'll find it is very easy to control. I used to squeeze the stick between my fingers but no more. Now, almost every shot is near dead center of the cone,
If you have trouble with pulling shots, try it. If you're shots are still pulling then your joystick may be shot and it may be time to get a new one.
Once the swing is straightened out, now you can go about the simplified math that I've come up with without having to worry about deviations because of pulled shots.
I am going to use one example for all that follows. You can apply it to any length shot with some minor adjustments that I will cover. Don't worry. Nothing will be left out.
Step 2) Calculating Distance. Elevation and Wind Effects
You have a 170 yard approach shot. The green is 24 feet above your head. The wind is blowing in (south) at 10 mph.
What is the effective distance you have to carry?
Let's take the elevation first. This is simple. 24 feet is equal to 8 yards (24/3). So you simply add 8 yards to your shot. So this is now effectively a 178 yard approach shot.
What about the wind?
This is where things get complicated because the wind has different effects depending on the direction and club you're using. We'll do this example first and then we'll change the wind direction so you can see the different effects.
There are essentially 5 different wind direction pairs in this game.
North
South
East
West
Northeast/Northwest
Southeast/Southwest
Again, this is a simplified sheet so I'm keeping these calculations easy.
Variables Used
WS = Wind Speed
HD = Hole Distance
NHD = New Hole Distance
Okay, let's start from North and work our way down
North - NHD = HD - WS
South - NHD = HD + 1.5 x WS
East - NHD = HD
West - NHD = HD
Northeast/Northwest - NHD = HD - .75 x WS
Southeast/Southwest - NHD = HD + WS
That takes care of the distance. But what about on shots where the ball isn't going straight out such as when it's being blown east to west? There we have to now start clicking our aim circle either right or left of the flag.
But how much?
Here's the cheat sheet for that.
East
(Driver and Woods) 2 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 4 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 2 x WS to the right
So let's say your wind speed from the east is 12 mph and you're firing off the tee. You'd make 24 clicks to the right from the spot on the fairway you want to land. I'll get to fairway aiming later.
If it's an approach shot with a 6 iron, you'd make 48 clicks to the right from the spot on the green you want to hit.
For short pitches, you're back to 24 clicks.
For West, just exchange the word right with left.
The remaining ones are the tough ones as well as the in between shots. Not everything fits into one of these scenarios. For example, a shot that isn't quite directly north but isn't as far as northeast. What do you do? Those shots require on th fly subtle adjustments and come from experience. But they'll be somewhere between north and northeast as far as the calculations go. So you'll always be in the ball park. You'll have your most trouble on very strong winds.
But let's get to northeast and northwest.
Northeast
(Driver and Woods) 1.5 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 2 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 1.5 x WS to the right
For northwest, just exchange right with left
Moving onto Southeast and Southwest
Southeast
(Driver and Woods) 1.5 x WS to the right
(3 iron down to 9 iron) 2 x WS to the right
(Wedges) 1.5 x WS to the right
For southwest, just exchange right with left.
And that's it for adjusting for elevation and wind.
Let's do 3 different examples so you can get an idea of how quickly you can do this.
Example 1)
156 yard approach shot to green that is 15 feet below you. Wind is blowing from the east at 18 mph.
15 feet is 5 yards. Subtract from 156 giving you 151
Wind is from east so no other change to distance.
Speed is 18 mph so you click 72 times to the right
That's it. It's that simple
Example 2)
181 yard approach shot to green that is 22 feet above you. Wind is blowing northeast (arrow pointing to the right between north and east) at 8 mph.
22 feet is about 7 yards. I round to the nearest whole number. So I add 7 yards to 181 giving me 188 yards. Wind is northeast so I subtract .75 x 8 from hole distance. That's 6 yards. So now I'm back down to 182 yards. So essentially, the wind makes up for the higher elevation.
Example 3)
147 yard approach shot to green that is 38 feet above you with wind blowing straight in at 20 mph.
Okay, 38 feet is about 13 yards. So I add that to the distance giving me 160 yards. 20 mph straight in (South) is 1.5 x 20 or 30 yards added. That now brings us up to 190 yards.
See how fast 147 yards becomes a 190 yard shot?
And that's it. It takes me about 5 seconds to do these simple calculations in my head. The clicking, depending on the wind speed, does slow you down a bit. But it's worth the effort.
But Why Not Just Draw And Fade?
Because the accuracy suffers. I have found when using draw and fade that you really need to be dead center of that arrow and even then, the wind seems to play havoc with your ball when you do this. I only use draw and fade when I have to, such as when I have an obstructed shot or severe dog leg or clicking right or left takes me right into a tree.
Picking Your Spot To Land
This really helped my game a lot once I learned how to do this. Simple.
Hit the Y button on your controller to activate the scout cam. After you've reached the end, squeeze that little lever on the right hand side and it will zoom you right into the very spot you are aiming for. After I pick the spot I want, I then make my adjustments. I almost never miss a fairway now.
Par 5 Strategy
Unless you are 100% sure that your second shot is going to land you on the green and hold it, giving you an excellent shot at an eagle, lay up. Always, always, always. Short pitches from 20 yards out are killers on par 5s because of the spin back.
I try to land between 40 and 60 yards from the pin. That's my sweet spot. The sand wedge default of 45 yards with adjustments (Club selection and loft are next) is usually an eagle anyway or at worst, a 2 foot putt for birdie.
Step 3) Club Selection and Loft
Okay, so you've calculated your effective distance to the pin.
Now what?
You've been given an 8 iron (145 yards) for your 147 yard shot to the green but you've just discovered you have to cover 190 yards.
What do you?
There are too many variables involved at this stage to cover all conditions, such as green speed and firmness. Ultimately, you'll develop your own theory and style and this may change from shot to shot.
You need to cover 190 yards. You know that much.
If the greens are fast and firm, you're probably going to roll 15 to 20 yards. For soft greens, maybe 5 yards. Maybe 10 for medium. This is where the PGA guys have this all down to a science that I just can't be bothered with. I just want to come fairly close. So I make a mental note of the green firmness (you'll get this after hole 1) and do the 5, 10 or 20 depending on that firmness and also depending on where the pin is. If it's tucked in the front of the green with a trap in front of it, you're screwed anyway, so just get as close as you can.
So for this example, let's say the green is regular firmness and the pin is in the back leaving us plenty of room to roll to it.
That means our 190 now becomes about 180 yards, more or less.
What club do we choose?
Well, we could choose the 5 iron (181 yards) and just fire away. Or we can take our 4 iron (195 yards) and loft up a box and a half. Never loft more than a box and a half. I don't like the 3 iron loft up to the top unless I absolutely have to, which I almost never do.
Figuring Loft Adjustment
If you look at the loft box you'll see there are percentages next to every line. I have bad eyes, can't read 'em and don't have the patience to do that kind of math. So I simplified it, even if it's not dead accurate, it's close enough.
Half way up the box is 5 yards.
All the way up the box is 10 yards.
The exceptions are the wedges.
The pitching wedge (120 yards) is 10 yards half way and 20 yards all the way up the first box.
The other wedges are odd numbers below 10. If I want to go 40 yards with my lob wedge I'll go up almost a whole box.
When the distances are that small, it doesn't really matter that much as long as you can putt decently since you'll always be within 10 feet of the hole with these shots. At least you should be from this distance.
Step 4) Putting
I am NOT the world's greatest putter. If I was, I'd be in the PGA by now. The reason I made it to Web is because of how crazy close I get to the pin on a fairly regular basis. So I don't get a lot of long putts.
I have learned a few putting tricks as far as how to read greens that I will share however. These concern very specific green breaks and using the grid boxes.
The Fast Break
Many times you will look at the putt you have in front of you and see that the green is breaking hard right or left going by the speed and steadiness of the beads.
When I see a break like this, I take the distance to the hole and move one full box length (right or left) for every 10 feet.
So let's say I have a 22 foot putt and the green is breaking from right to left hard. Starting from the pin itself, I will aim my marker 2.2 boxes to the right. So the first full box will actually be in the middle of the box to the right of the pin since the pin is always centered in the box by the grid.
The Moderate Break
Not as fast as the fast break. For this, simply half the above calculation. So a 22 foot putt is essentially 1.1 boxes to the right of the pin.
Putt Distance
Use the marker. If you don't, you're just making it harder on yourself.
For putts that go uphill, the software does this for you. But for downhill putts, you need to do this yourself.
An example best illustrates how to do this.
You have a 14 foot putt. It's going downhill with a 3 inch decline. You simply subtract 3 from 14 and move the marker 11 feet away from you. Essentially, you now have an 11 foot putt. Play it like an 11 foot putt.
Simply subtract decline from distance.
How Far Back To Pull The Putter?
Here is how I do it. I do a moderately timed count. 10, 20, etc.
So if I have a 30 foot putt on a 165 speed green, I pull back the putter and go "10, 20, 30" and when I hit 30, I let the putter go.
I've managed to keep a steady count to the point where I am now missing 30 foot putts by less than 2 feet.
It will take you time to get your tempo down just right. There is nothing I can say here to make that happen any faster. Maybe try a stop watch and count to the seconds until you build an internal rhythm.
But What About Short Putts?
Short putts on distance aren't really hard. It's the breaks that kill me. But obviously, on a putt under 10 feet, you want to release that putter BEFORE you even hit 10.
Unfortunately, short putts are more a feel thing than anything else in this game. But if you've done everything above to get to this point, you'll give yourself a better chance of getting short putts.
What About When I Miss The Green?
I was so bad at this game hitting greens that I had to learn to use my lob wedge to get out of scrapes. Because of this, I developed a great technique for pitching out from 9 yards to about 15 yards.
This is what I do in a nut shell.
I take my lob wedge and loft all the way up to the top. This is for 9 and 10 yard shots. For 11, i notch below. For 12, 1 notch below that and so on.
I then pull back the joystick and push it forward like I'm squeezing the trigger of a gun. Not too fast and not too slow.
I've become so accurate with this shot that many times i hit the flag pole.
It will take time to get the technique down but it will save you on shots where chipping isn't an option.
Step 4) Know The Course Inside And Out
As much as I hate saying this, my rise to the Web came about in part because I practiced each course so much before tee time that I knew every inch of every hole. You can't be taken by surprise by a false front on a green or whatever. You need to know every little thing about every hole. If I didn't practice this much, I wouldn't be in the Web right now. I truly believe that.
That's it.
Like I said, you guys in A and B probably don't need this stuff and may even have better systems. This is not going to get anybody to the PGA. It's not refined enough. But I don't have to look at charts and can breeze through a course on 20 to 25 minutes.
Others are of course welcome to offer more advanced and accurate tips. I am sure everybody would welcome them.
I hope they are of help to the players just starting out. I am 100% confident that they will greatly improve your game.
If anybody has any questions, please feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer.
It has been a pleasure playing in CC and I'm going to miss the excitement of dodging the strike line and maybe even getting an SE. But I won't miss worrying about being demoted to the tier below. That was really weighing on me. Now I can relax.
Thank you all for making this the best community on the Internet.
Just kidding of course, lol. I wish you best of luck going forward. Thanks for all of your time with us.
