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Post by hoosierhoops24 on Dec 2, 2018 17:32:11 GMT -5
I"m attempting to do an RCR of the 9 hole course I played on growing up. The greens themselves have very few undulations, but several of the greens have a significant slope to them. I'm really having a hard time figuring out how to create the proper slope/tilt. Anyone have any suggestions/tips? Thank you.
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Post by lonewolf75 on Dec 8, 2018 10:01:03 GMT -5
I am struggling with this also, been trying to add some contours that wont send the ball rolling 100ft
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Post by joegolferg on Dec 8, 2018 10:13:29 GMT -5
I"m attempting to do an RCR of the 9 hole course I played on growing up. The greens themselves have very few undulations, but several of the greens have a significant slope to them. I'm really having a hard time figuring out how to create the proper slope/tilt. Anyone have any suggestions/tips? Thank you. The best way to add flat slope to your greens is to use the raise tool with the soft oval brush. Raise up the entirety of the green from whatever direction you want the green to slope. Example... I want my green to slope heavily from back to front. I raise up the ground behind the green, not on the green - lifting the green up from beyond. Once you have that first bit of slope hitting the green, you then micro sculpt the green accordingly. This only works effectively if you completely flatten your green beforehand! I like to call this "mass sculpting" a general sculpting of the area before you dive into your detailed micro sculpting. This might read as a pretty confusing answer but I'm afraid this is the best I can answer. It's such a simple thing but, it's quite difficult to explain in words. I'm not one for making design tips videos but when I see questions like yours I sort of get an itch to express what I mean via a tutorial...
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Post by ErixonStone on Dec 8, 2018 12:03:39 GMT -5
I am struggling with this also, been trying to add some contours that wont send the ball rolling 100ft use the sharp circle or square (last page) and raise an area by 6 inches. Use the bean shape or the sharpest oval (page 1) and raise 9 inches. Raise slowly. Flatten a lot. Use large shapes. Do not rush.
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Post by hoosierhoops24 on Dec 9, 2018 23:20:46 GMT -5
Thank you joegolferg and ErixonStone for your suggestions. I'll try them out and see what happens. This at least gives me a clue of how to start.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2018 0:14:30 GMT -5
Also suggest that the greens are set to their highest speed available (187) during creation. That way it will the the “worst case scenario” when it comes to slope speed etc.
Oh and test play from all sides and possible landing places.
Sorry if you meant exactly how to do it but I thoughts you should be aware of considerations as well as just the how to.
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Post by hoosierhoops24 on Dec 10, 2018 9:04:50 GMT -5
That's a good tip, RoyTGC. I wasn't even thinking about that, but I can see how that could be helpful. Thank you.
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Post by ErixonStone on Dec 10, 2018 9:20:58 GMT -5
I would caution against this. Setting the greens to 187 and then designing is a very conservative approach to green contouring, and could lead to your course being among the many with green speeds between 170 and 180.
What I do suggest is to find a setting from the following:
119, 144, 163, 187
Design using one of those and publish the course at something in between. If you want slow, slopey greens, pick 144 (medium), design your greens, and then lower the speed down to 131. If you want moderately fast greens, start at 163, design your greens, and then lower the speed to 155.
Of course, if you really want fast greens, feel free to design while using 187 and then publish the course with something like 175.
If you design at 187 and publish at something significantly slower, you run the risk of two things:
- your greens being too easy - players ending up in places where they have to putt but can't reach the hole.
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Post by B.Smooth13 on Dec 10, 2018 10:01:53 GMT -5
I'm a big fan of using what I affectionately call the "mystery brush" to sculpt greens, especially when you want to add some slope but not loads. It's the oval-ish brush on the 1st page, middle column, 2nd from the bottom (or 3rd from the top, same thing). If you're trying to keep slopes subtle, I'd suggest making sure your not making the brush too small as that will create more sharp slope, and don't alter by more than 4 or 5 inches at a time.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2018 15:14:37 GMT -5
Listen to Patrick not me, he knows what he is talking about.
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Post by ErixonStone on Dec 10, 2018 16:12:18 GMT -5
Listen to Patrick not me, he knows what he is talking about. if the intent is to publish with very fast greens, then you're not wrong. One of my WIPs is designed for slow green speeds so I can be more aggressive with my contours. I think we see too many courses with green speeds between 170 and 180. I would like to see more variety.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2018 16:15:10 GMT -5
Listen to Patrick not me, he knows what he is talking about. if the intent is to publish with very fast greens, then you're not wrong. One of my WIPs is designed for slow green speeds so I can be more aggressive with my contours. I think we see too many courses with green speeds between 170 and 180. I would like to see more variety. i agree. I read advice previously that 187 for testing puts you in a place where there is less risk of having unplayable slopes upon publish than if you were to have it at say 144 during creation then publish at 187, but what you say makes much more sence
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Post by ErixonStone on Dec 10, 2018 16:49:28 GMT -5
...187 for testing puts you in a place where there is less risk of having unplayable slopes upon publish... Yes, this is true. It also mitigates risk of unplayable slopes if a certain tour scheduler wants to punish beginner tour players by cranking up the greens to "Very Fast" without consulting with the course designer. True story: I started designing a course without first checking course conditions. I spent an hour contouring a thumbprint green on the first hole. I play tested several times and cleared away any yellow slopes inside the thumbprint. I got the green to exactly where I thought it should be. On what I expected to be the last play test, I noticed the green speed: 101 feet. I intend the course to be playable at 187 so I cranked up the green speed to the max and re-checked. The entire thumbprint was red!! Had to completely redo the entire green.
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Post by hoosierhoops24 on Dec 12, 2018 9:18:12 GMT -5
Thanks guys for your input, I really do appreciate the help. The particular course I'm doing does not have particularly fast greens, but some of them do have a significant slope to them. It's a relatively short course and not extremely difficult, but I felt like it would be a good way to help improve my designer skills. I'm also trying to get my brother and my nephews to play TGC 2019 and thought it would be fun to introduce them to the game by creating the course that my brother and I learned to play the game on. I still go back home every summer and play several rounds there with my brother and nephews. Once again, I appreciate the advice and I'll keep working on it.
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